steven

:D weddle the driver circuit used to power the high voltage tv flyback transformer is powerd from a 12 volts rechargeble lead acid cell battery, some high voltage flyback transformers normally have biult in high voltage tripplers , to put out tripple dose, im not far from completeing my 21st high voltage output unit, and all my flyback transformer collection will be used up, im sorry about the rush in trying to photograpth this amazeing long arc , only to have made a blunder in the rush, but all my units ive biult never did what this did dureing the incedent of the wire stuck to the pvc pipe section rolling apart, when the blue tac failed to hold it, and the wire moved apart with it, and that was when i saw it shoot really far, a purple arc. this modified hv polarityindicator certainly made the difference for sure , the modified hv polarity indicator i only ever used it on this flyback transformer, to test it.

: thanks john its great to see circuits like that,steven

:)this is intresting , the generation of electrissity useing quartz crystals. well when the movement of the earths crust happens dureing an earth quake, the quartz in the ground is subjected to alot of stress this causes it to give off energy , now you can test this on a small scale, you will need one small flatt quartz speaker ,i think it is. youll find them in those musical cards that play musical tunes when you open them. take the small disk shape speaker, out and solder an led to it. a small led, get the legs right way around positive to positive of speaker disc and negative to negative, it may work the other way around, but when you subject that little disk to pressure from slightly bending it, the led will light up as you apply pressure to it when bending it slightly, steven

:) from steven sorry ive made an error it is a tranny not a diode. thanks hotwater wizard and ante, i opologise for the error, from steven

:)ante thanks anyhow.steven.

:) dose anyone have the info on the d40d5 diode and any replacements, allso a diode with green band at one end has the letters free on it, from a pocket camera flash unit

:)kasamiko they both induce current into alliuminium that makes them diagmagnetically. repell into the air , ;)

:) from steven, oh ill see if i still have the talking electronics mag and email the pic of the night rider scanner by talking electronics, yes it is a kit for the car. did i make any boo boo :o

:) with so many circiuts in my collection i havent got to biuld this night rider scanner as it was a talking electronics circiut from my colection but i now favour the one in this site, from steven

:)i did some searching on the net well the bd 708 transistor, complimentary silicon power transistor, is produced by s t microelectronics, cant access the data sheetsb the bd705 is what hotwater wizard sys it is as i found the same info . the k818 and k819, theres nothing i can kind on them ,

:)steven, mp i to had a look through my circiuts on the transisters you described and there missing from the list, if they aint discontinued. i dont know why the info on them aint so freely avaliable,

;) if you have a digital multimeter with biult in continiuity tester this may help.

:D if in boubt throw it out, power supply for a tatoo ,machine in the seventies ,it was easyer to biuld a tatoo machine ,that would run off a 12 volts transformer, with these parts, 1 a tape recorder moter. 2 a pen caseing .3 a bycical spoke and needle and cotton and a radiator hose clip and , and a plastic wheel from a tape recorder and 2 lengths of wire and some indian ink. and a strip of metal.

:) the 7400 ic testor and timer testor and 556 timer tester have leds that alternate . there posted , on site so check them out.

;)as nice as it looks . the light chasser circiut has a good use. i biult a double one, that powerd .more than 90 leds but i used it as a lotto number picker, and by taping into the electro and by shorting it out via a push button switch i was able to stop the leds in there tracks ,thus determining the numbers to pick, the numbers were home made decal dots with the numbers written on them with a fine point marker pen. and surgically placed under each led with a pair of tweezers. as for the night rider scanner type if you like the circiut ill post it . and there used to be a similiar intresting one around called the cylon eye but i dont have the circiut for that anymore.

:) a testor like this dose help reduce the time in fault finding, and if your hevily into scroungeing second hand parts from old electronic junk. it is usefull to know what still works and what dosent work, especially ,if you have the sometimes messy job at removeing these from the board, if they aint pluged into an ic socket, stay tuned the 2 section 1458, testor and the 7400 ic testor will be here soon. steven

:) :) i hope this helps. ceramic capacitor marked 104k, 63, and under it, y5p 104=100,000pf=100nf=0.1uf k= +- 10% tollerance. 63 is for 63 volts. y= - 30 degrees celcious, p= +- 10% stability. ceramic capacitors, with non -linear tempiture coeficients, sometimes use a 3 digit code to indicate there operating tempiture and there stability over that range. the first character like y - 30 degree cellcious. second character 7 thats +125 degree celcious 3rd character p is +/- 10per cent stability. from steven

;) cool stuff mixos,

8) Part 2 :) continued : after you have made your pvc boxing, and filed the the edges down, then it is time to do the panel work. you will need to mark the positions for your switches, and potentiometers, once you have done that , use a potentiometer knob to gauge the correct distance apart, for which you are to make the holes, for. once you have done these. and installed your inputs and other things, you will need to do your decal work. it aint easy so here is how i do it, you will need one roll of self adhesive stick on lables, any blank white coloured peel off label that you may use in the kitchen to label your food or cooking ingredients containers with, you will allso need a paper punch, punch out the white dots with the paper punch, from the labels, dont peel the labels off the backing, yet. then with a thin blade box cutter or stanely knife splice the backing off each punched out dot, and useing a pair of tweezers carefully place these stick on dots , around the potentiometers, then with a fine point texture pen write the numbers from one to whatever amount of dots you have, these are your potentiometer positions for circiut callibration . you can use these stick on dots to illiustrate on /and off for a swicth , just place them onto your pannel layout and write the details onto the dots. one letter per dot, you will see how neat your circiut box pannell work will look once youve done this. it takes up less room than a peace of paper stuck on, to tell you what the dials or swtch positions are. your home made stick on lettering, dots can be used on any prototype circiut board to , illiustrate transistor leg positions and mosfet legs . hold each dot between your fingers and splice the backing off with the thin blade of a pair of box cutters, or other. once youve got used to doing this you will be on your way to spiceing up your pannel work for your project circiut boxes. ;) steven

:) havent got the eqiupment yet to download or upload images but will try as soon as i get them. thankyou for your reply about my component testers. steven.

:D hello there i hope this may be of use to you, i dont know how to insert a link but here is something that may be of use to you. http://www.geocities.com/picketfence/street/7775/schematics/trackingtransmitter/tx15trak.html hope this helps you. :D steven.

:D hello there, you are right . and i myself beleave that even junk parts can come in handy , ive had years expierience in dismantleing , electronic junk for parts theres allways something intresting to use, and even high voltage microwave oven diodes are usefull to . even the moter, and thermal switches to, and magnets from the magnetron to , remember one electronics mans junk, is another electronics mans, treasure. :D steven.

:) for a good output generator , ive found microwave oven ,moters to be effective , although the shaft is tight to turn . but with a pair of pliers ,i tried it and little did i know at first that, i was gona get a big shock, so i tested it more ,this moter when rotated sure puts out a good charge enougth to make me drop the moter. i biult a voltage multiplier circiut . this has 19 stages useing 1n4007 diodes and 3kv ceramics 0.0033uf , and to it i ran wires , from the microwave moter , then i rotated it a few times, as tight as it was to rotate, the pair of pliers i used , sure helped. every few times i rotated it i was able to get a tiny arc or small spark from the multiplier circiut. ;)

:) hello mp i dont have a digital camera yet to take any photos to upload or download but will do that as soon as possible ,

;) this simple plasma tube exsperiment ive biult before consists of a few photo flash tubes from the old phased out pocket cameras in australia. now there is 4 tubes but only 2 are from pocket cameras, the other 2 are exenon flash tubes , these 2 were not from any camera ive autopsied, now one of the camera flash tubes is longer than the other. This longest tube i used to form the botton edge of a tryangle ,the 2 rxenon tubes i solder one to each end and bent down to complte the tryangle/then from that corner where the 2 exenon tubes meet and are solderd like the other ,i solder one more camera flash tube. the setup now looks like a tryangle with a tube sticking out one corner . Now to power them i used a flyback driver circiut, originally a transformer driver circiut used for the vortex canon circiut on carl williams robotic site i think it was, now in the circiut instead of a transformer and the rest of the circiut i stop at that and used a small unusual looking flyback like transformer, that was linked to a flyback , and it had its own hv ouput lead . now withe the tube setup i solderd a wire to one corner and from there to another corner , the flyback or transformer driver circiut itself, i made the following modifications, i changed all the 1n4007 diodes to uf4007 diodes, they are 10 nanosecond high speed diodes if i remember corectly . Now all the flashtubes have there trigger coil wires removed . now comes the good part, when i fire it up i get arc streamers moveing in the tubes but when i make some adjustments, the moveing arcs suspend , they freeze into the shape i got sine wave shape ,sawtooth shape and a strait line still arc none move unless i adjust the circiut more then ill get a square wave shape nice and still as it holds that shape. when i make another adjust ment the square wave starts untill i re adjust it, then its still. now with the straitline arc i bring a magnet near it and it starts to bend . while makeing adjustments the radio down stairs starts to sound like its being tuned throught the short wave band . and at another point of adjustment it jams the radio completely / every station across the dial is being efected. Now here comes the wierd part at another point of adjustment , one of the exenon tubes appear to have a light purple glow around it and the transparency seems different and that tube appears to look like its colapseing like its melting and a clear like fluid runing from one end to the other i hope to conduct this exsperiment again soon , i canot properly exsplain it but for a moment i thought the tube was invisible. no damage was done ,after i switched the circiut off the tube i can see more easy again .