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Everything posted by ante

  1. I bet you got an improved mileage too! The energy from the coil should be used to ignite the fuel inside the engine not illuminate the engine compartment! ;D
  2. Philips made quite a few kits like this back in the late sixties and early seventies and I thought they worked very well. Philips EE electronic experiment kits, and even a few mechanical kits where produced also good quallity. I have fiddled and had a lot of fun with a few of these kits back in the sixties. I haven
  3. The only thing MJE 13001 and BUZ 11A has common are three legs!
  4. A 50Ah battery might be a motorcycle battery. Most midsize cars have 70Ah for petrol engines and 90 or more for diesels.
  5. I find it more likely that another part/component has gone bad. I would check the wiring and the connectors for oxidation and dirt/moist. Some ignition modules have internal temperature protection and if the cooling of the module is not sufficient it reduces power and eventually shuts down. Check the surface between the module and the chassis for corrosion. Clean both surfaces (metal clean) and apply some new silicon grease to it. As AG says: a new air filter can increase the performance, and so can a set of new plugs and even new plug wires!
  6. You should not parallel it to the original battery since they are not the same type. You might get away with replacing it though but the charging time and characteristics can be a problem. The charger inside the APC is not set/dimensioned for a car battery and the car battery is usually not of the deep cycle type. A starter battery (car battery) is constructed to supply very high current outputs for short periods and not to be deeply discharged. The deep cycle type cannot supply such high currents but will allow you to drain it down to 20 or 30% before you charge it. If charged from an external source it would work and add some extra time. Correctly setup and fused there should be no additional risk of fire. However the car battery will not cycle as many times as a deep cycle type battery would before the end of its lifespan.
  7. This circuit will be sensitive to temperature changes.
  8. A very enjoying avatar and a blurry text!
  9. Sorry Max, :-\ I did not upload it to RS, I found it as is and I haven
  10. Yes, there is a connector for this but you obviously forgot to cannibalize it from the phone when you ripped out the screen! ;)
  11. I believe we need to see your circuit since there is several ways to obtain fuzz (distortion).
  12. Electronics Workbench V10.0 Power Pro Edition 315Mb ISO file. http://rapidshare.com/files/18960102/NIEWBCDS_V10_MAZ.part1.rar http://rapidshare.com/files/18969089/NIEWBCDS_V10_MAZ.part2.rar http://rapidshare.com/files/19142027/NIEWBCDS_V10_MAZ.part3.rar http://rapidshare.com/files/19164693/NIEWBCDS_V10_MAZ.part4.rar http://rapidshare.com/files/19279174/NIEWBCDS_V10_MAZ.part5.rar http://rapidshare.com/files/19280965/NIEWBCDS_V10_MAZ.part6.rar
  13. It is very well explained in the links provided by Hotwaterwizard above!
  14. If you can find a standard 12 VAC 20W halogen transformer in UK made for 230-240VAC it will replace the one in the picture.
  15. I would probably use shades instead which just needs to be tipped not rolled out. This I would then be controlled by an RC servo (PWM). Edit: should be BLINDS not shades! sorry for the mixup!
  16. This is where I got mine: http://se.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=204353
  17. There is no problem to use one motor to pull another motor backwards and vice versa as long as only one at the time is powered. One way to set up a circuit is with two latching relays and two micro switches one for each direction.
  18. I got some MC33172N last week from Farnell and they are DIL
  19. You have to state the purpose of the rpm-meter! Is it for a merry-go-round or a turbojet engine with an afterburner?
  20. Yes I think you must have two motors if you do not have the help of a spring for one direction!
  21. Perhaps you can get PTC resistors where you live; they act similar to the PolySwitch if you find a suitable value for your motor (not as good but it works)! Fold back current limiting is not the best choice for a motor circuit, this will not trip the circuit and if the motor gets jammed it will fry in a while.
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