bidrohini

Hello, which current sensor did you use in this project?

It is always good to make a design and use simulation software. Like proteus. This will give you an idea of how your circuit will behave in real life. Then you can proceed to the hardware implementation.

Thanks a lot. Power supply design always looks challenging to me. Even the ready-made Power supplies like Baku, Koccu etc. fail after a few days. Hopefully, I will follow this design someday.

I see. The board supports DC loads only, right?

I can see that you directly connected a lightbulb to the board. Is that an AC bulb or DC?

For IoT projects I use the free version of BLYNK 2. Is home assistance free or paid? Does it support only Raspberry Pi or ESP8266/32 also?

I think it will be much easier if you switch to Arduino. You will need to connect the PIR output to a digital pin. You will also need to conenct the LDR to an analog pin of the Arduino. By using the digitalRead and analogRead functions you can read the PIR and LDR sensor outputs. Then you can connect to the Arduino and turn on a relay/led/buzzer whatever you wish to control. https://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2017/08/pir-sensor-arduino-interfacing.html https://www.hackster.io/electronicsfan123/interfacing-arduino-uno-with-ldr-8760ba

Thanks for sharing. The range sounds good.

Great product. Personally, I never used the VL53L0X sensor. But I find it very interesting and useful. The PCB looks neat too. Did you get the PCB from https://www.pcbway.com ? Or somewhere else?

Very simple but useful project. I was just wondering, have you made any PCB of this project? You can make a prototype by yourself or get it printed from: https://www.pcbway.com

Hello, I am interested in Machine learning projects nowadays. This shopping cart looks very cool to me. https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/IoT_AI_driven_Smart_Grocery_Cart_w_Edge_Impulse_5652a9b2.html I can see a Lattepanda has been used here. I wanna know if it is possible to use any STM32 board instead of Lattepanda for this project. Thanks a advance.

Hi, have you tested it by yourself?

I think you are right. Because I never came across such a strange marking on ICs before.

Thanks for sharing the design and the video. I came across this design and found it good too: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/power_supply_0_30V_2mA_3A_version2_28ca8ff0.html But your power supply has a bigger voltage and current rating I can see.

You can take a look at the Klein Tools VDV512-101 Cable Tester.

The LEDs are 12V LEDs, right? If you use a 9V battery, I think the LEDs will not turn on properly. You may just see a faint glow.

Good to know that you got it working.

You can add a decoupling capacitor. Sometimes, the output waveform can be clipped due to noise in the power supply. Adding a decoupling capacitor between the power supply and the ground can help reduce the noise and improve the output waveform.

I think it's not possible to give a good answer without knowing which specific DXP softaware you're using and what error you're facing.

Bypassing the Hall sensor is not recommended. You can check the manual for instructions on how to calibrate the sensor.

For making a holo projector, you can follow this video: You can also take a look here to know how to install an outdoor projector: https://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2018/09/how-to-install-outdoor-projector.html Y

Music ICs like UM66 are avaiable. However, you cannot customize them. UM66 can play only the music that is already set by the manufacturer. If you want to play something of your own choice, I think you can move to Arduino related projects. Using waveshare VS1053B music shield. https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/Music_Shield Here is another music playing PCB based on Arduino Nano that you may like to see: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Musical_Christmas_Reindeer_0cf8bc23.html

Good to know that it is working. I always used to bootload Atmega328P with a full fledged Arduino UNO board. Then I added the necessary crystal oscillator, capacitors and resistors along with the chip to the breadboard. Finally, I connected an FTDI module to upload code to the Atmega328P from my laptop.

I really like this circuit. Such a small and compact PCB.

Thanks. I have just started using Pico. Will try this someday.