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Oxodized Sodering iron


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Hi Tweak,
I have used temperature-controlled soldering irons for most of my long life. They heatup to operating temperature very quickly, don't cause overheating damage to components, heat more at full power to solder something that is big, and allow the tips to last almost forever. No oxidization. The rosin in the solder doesn't turn to charcoal and therefore does its "wetting" job properly.
Try one and you won't use the old "too hot" kind anymore.

All you can do for your oxidized tip is to sand it gently (it might have a thin layer of plating under the oxidization) and tin it immediately.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We used to use a chemical--that I cannot, for the life of me, remember the name of now--to clean off oxide residue from soldering irons, before they started cladding the tips. It worked well on the clad iron tips as well, IIRC.

I can say that I've seen Radio Shack # 64-020, and another item:
from here: http://www.dt.com.au/category.php?pagefrom=ELECT:TOOLS&cat=ELECT:TOOLS:SAIDS
that you might find helpful for problems like this in the future.

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  • 1 month later...

The tip is actually causing a short circuit which acts somewhat like a welder. It creates heat from this action and that is what causes the solder to melt. This is why I suggested a battery change. It does not take much to zap a C cell. The other thing I would look for is a dirty tip or possibly a crack or chip in the tip. This would cause a problem. A dirty tip would reduce current flow and then the solder would not melt. In this case, you might still get enough current to get the board hot.


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