MP Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 I was not aware there was a board layout in the project. Actually, there are two different projects in our projects section.I assume that since you have already tried everything, that this included moving the PSU and fan away from the board? Other than this and the posted ideas, I do not have any other ideas. You will need to keep making changes until you find the right combination. Probably something simple, once you find it. That is how it usually works.MP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobiD Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 Maybe I misunderstood what you asked.Here is a link to the project:http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/pc/008/I had taped all three motor leads together, I undid this and there is an improvement, now when the motor is running, the z axis goes to, say the cut is -1.5mm, it will lower to 3mm from 5mm and begin it's run.Without the dremel running, it goes to the correct depth.It gets frustrating when you feel your not moving forward.Thanks for your helpDavid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobiD Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 Just an update.Everything works fine if I run the dremel at a slow speed.Only problem is it pulls the cutting tool through the work faster than it can cut.I have slowed down cutting speed, but if I go any slower... well you know.There must be a simple solution.David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted April 6, 2005 Report Share Posted April 6, 2005 Can somebody tell me what this part is? I'm using an AC motor from a busted drill for the spindle, and this was connected parallel to the switch.Is it some kind of a filter? Should I add it to the relay board I'm making? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobiD Posted April 6, 2005 Report Share Posted April 6, 2005 Just an update.Everything works fine if I run the dremel at a slow speed.Only problem is it pulls the cutting tool through the work faster than it can cut.I have slowed down cutting speed, but if I go any slower... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted April 12, 2005 Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 RobiD you could try a flexible shaft to keep the drill furter away and to keep the spindle lighter.BTW any answers about this?I thought it was a cap (it says 0.33uF) but when I measure it it doesn't seem like one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobiD Posted April 12, 2005 Report Share Posted April 12, 2005 All is good with the new dremel now.ThanksDavid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 5, 2005 Report Share Posted May 5, 2005 I made some changes to the board to suit my needs, here they are in case someone else finds them usefull:1. Changed board dimensions so it will fit in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 5, 2005 Report Share Posted May 5, 2005 PCB and overlay in *.ps format (zipped):v2.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP Posted May 6, 2005 Report Share Posted May 6, 2005 Greekpic,The pin assignments were setup to match generic software packages. If I understood correctly, then the pulses from generic packages such as DanCad will no longer work.I did the same thing several years ago and wrote my own software. It was not until later that I realized my board with the pin assignments that I chose would only work with my software. This was not a big issue, but I ended up changing the pin assignments (and re-writing my software) so that I was not restricted to only one software package on my machine.MP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 6, 2005 Report Share Posted May 6, 2005 In most software packages you can change the pin assignment. I use TurboCNC and it does that, so does CNCPlayer which I've also tried. I haven't tried Mach2 but from what I've heard it does too. As a matter of fact it comes as a surprise to me that there are programs out there that don't give you this option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP Posted May 8, 2005 Report Share Posted May 8, 2005 Yes, there are some programs out there that do not allow for this. That is what makes it necessary for a particular pin out when making a "one size fits all" type of board. Otherwise you get a lot of grumbles from those who use such limited software.Since you have the capabilities with all of your software programs, then this will not cause you a problem. I only wanted to point this out as a "heads up" for those who might use the new board and have a problem. I have a small LED board that I made years ago. I slow down the pulses so that I can see them and plug the board in to see what is lighting up before adding ANY new hardware to the computer. A good tool to have on hand. I highly suggest this to anyone making the CNC projects.MP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 Could someone help me with this? There's one in every hand drill.I thought it was a capacitor (it says 0.33uF on the case) but I measured it with my DVM and it was not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazza Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 Hi GreekPIC :),This link may give you some answers(http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4292562d0a01eeac273fc0a87f9c06ed/Product/View/R2620) ;). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Ok, thanks. So, if it's a cap, why doesn't my DVM agree with the nominal value? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdwardM Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Hi GreekPICthis link will give the the complete answer as to why the DVM reads anywhere between 470k and 2.7M Ohmshttp://www.pge.uk.com/PGE/pdf/KNB153x_R.pdfEd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Oh, now I see, not just a capacitor, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 I also wanted to report my experiences from using this board:-First of all the ver2.0 board will plug-in connectors makes it a lot easier to use. While seting the machine up you will need to rewire often. Having to unscrew ~20 terminals isn't fun.-It runs really cool. With printer steppers at 15V and heatsinks on the UCN's I had it running for 3,5 hours, moving the table diagonaly back and forth. Temp at the heatsink was ~30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdwardM Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Hi GreekPICI've been promising myself for years that I'd build a CNC machine ;) real soon now.With printer steppers at 15V and heatsinks on the UCN's I had it running for 3,5 hours, moving the table diagonaly back and forthApologies if you've already done so but could you post a picture of the mechanical aspects of the machine?ThanksEd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Well what I'm building now is just a test bed. I want to work all the details out so when I make the "real deal" there'll be no surprises.It's made out of everything I could find for free or really cheap. The body is melamine particle board (gift), the ways are ball bearing drawer slides, the motors from a scrapped printer, the spindle motor from a busted jig saw. The leadscrews are M8 threaded rod (gift).Ver2.0 machine will have aluminum frame, THK rails, ballscrews, 3ph spindle motor and VFD.If you need something small (e.g. fpr milling - drilling PCB's) I would suggest using rods & plain bronze bearings for the ways. There are nice rods where the steppers came from... ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazza Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Hi GreekPIC :),Very nice work :D, I have been planning to go the same way about it, start off with some think simple to become familiar with the whole process, then go on to the real deal 8).I have been dreaming up all sorts of ways to make a starter project, but I do like yours ;) and it would be really nice and I would appreciate it, if you could provide a few more picks of the really good parts.And I'm sure you know what I mean by the good parts ;D ;D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Here you go, I think this makes it clear: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Both leadnuts (X&Y) are bolted on the middle plate (you can see the X one and the bolts that hold the Y one. They are made from aluminum.-Lesson #1. Use Derlin for leadnuts. I thought the screw would wear the nut out to a point that binding will be minimized but its 7075T6 aluminum and I'll wear out before it does.You can see the motor support (laser cut & CNC bent) and the home/limit switches.-Lesson #2. Use timing belts to connect the motor to the screw. Otherwise the allignmen requirements will be very high.You can aslo see the ball bearing drawer slides. The middle plate slides along the Y axis over the base, the top plate (table) slides along X over the middle plate. Z uses the same slides and holds the chuck of a flexible drill shaft. The spindle motor is inside the body and this way the Z motor doesn't have to carry its weight.On top of the machine you can see the red emergency stop button and the start button. They operate a relay inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glass-Giant Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 Hi,Newbie here. I've been thinking of building a cnc mill for foam for a year or two now. I bought all the stuff for this board over the last year and stuff for a simple metal detector. Doing the metal detector now, as I've never made a pcb before. Will be starting the mill within the month.-First of all the ver2.0 board will plug-in connectors makes it a lot easier to use. While seting the machine up you will need to rewire often. Having to unscrew ~20 terminals isn't fun.I must have missed this - where is ver 2.0? I didn't see it in the Projects section or in the previous comments. Or is ver 2.0 your own doing?Thanks,Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreekPIC Posted May 25, 2005 Report Share Posted May 25, 2005 I've made some changes in the board, you'll find them on page 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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