The answer is in your instruction sheets but I cannot make out the terminal markings for a better answer as the photos are out of focus, sorry.
Is the second PIR different from the first?
If so, I would be inclined to connect as a seperate zone.
In many instances, the view you see from the component side is the one which is printed on to a transfer sheet.
When this sheet is placed on the copper side for transfer using heat or whatever, it is then the correct way around.
Don't know what inspires you to do it this fashion.
Why make a high supply (9v) only to cut it back down again?
Diode will only drop 0.5v anyhow so the servo will burn out.
Provide 2 supplies with common ground.
Servo will run on the 4 x 1.5v batteries and common the ground to the other 2 x...
Iron core transformers in the real world tend to be fairly hardy devices.
I have seen supply authorities for example, regularly run at 150% for years on end.
Nearly all electronics these days originate in China, does not mean they are rubbish.
One we use are obtained locally and if memory serves correct, cost around Aus$15.00.
Haven't had time to check the invoices for a part number though as yet.
If you go with seperate meters for the current and voltage it might overcome the problem.
The other article I referred to was how to run an LCD volt or current meter which is designed to run from an isolated supply off a common supply.
http://www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/articles/PanelMeter.asp
We use this here for 240v ac to monitor power/cost on a small scale.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-Plug-Power-Energy-Consumption-Watt-Meter-Electricity-Usage-Test-Equipment-/111674842039
Comparison between the 2 types here...
Thought about a supply isolator but the combo volt/current arrangement sort of throws a spanner in the works.
Saw a write up on that somewhere if you want I can look it up.
cheers...Jorgo
Take a look at this thread about the same problem.....
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/digital-panel-meters-measuring-negative-voltages/
Apparently the current sensor line may create a short on the supply.
Looks like it is 2 relays in the one casing.
Had a peek at the spec sheet and it says double mini relay.
You could verify it by powering one coil and use a multimeter to check the contact closure.
So for your motor you would energise one coil for forward and one coil for reverse.
If using with a...