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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Post by tesseract that included a design done in Eagle and picures zipped separately. Archives attached.30V_5A_PSU_Eagle.zip
Pictures.zip
Pictures.zip
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Post by PicMaster with the next iteration of his PS schematic in PDF. PDF attached.Power_supply_V1.pdf
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Post by PicMaster with iteration V2 of his PS schematic in PDF and a layout in PDF showing connections. Image is of this build. PDF's attached.power_supply.pdf
POWER_SUPPLY_V2.pdf
POWER_SUPPLY_V2.pdf
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Post by PicMaster with a really nice PDF of V2 with schematic, artwork, component placement, partslist, and external component connections. I think this is the definitive version. PDF attached.EL_power_supply.pdf
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Post by WinDTrek of his version. This one is unique in that he also wound his own transformer for the project. Instead of linking all of the pics to dropbox, I'm uploading them here with the one remaining PDF. One of the PDF's is 404 so I couldn't include it.My_DIY_transformer.pdf
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Continued
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
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Continued
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Finally, my post with the Eagle .sch and .brd, full gerbers, and parts list for Digikey in a zip file. I'm also including many of the pics I took as I was building that were posted both before and after this post. I'm still not completely done and may add more pics later. One thing I have changed is the third transformer for the auxiliary circuitry for the temperature sensor and fans and the displays (I wanted a better transformer than the Radio Shack special I had on hand). Archive attached.
30V.zip
30V.zip
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Continued
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
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liquibyte
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
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Edit: I've added a Digikey BOM exported as a spreadsheet as an attachment if you need it. If you just want to order the parts I have listed, just register or log in to your Digikey account and go to this link and you should be able to checkout from there by clicking the "Create Cart" button at the bottom of the page.
I have not included the mounting kits for the TO-3 transistors, any heat sinks, a case etc. I figure these things are more of a personal preference and can be had much cheaper elsewhere anyway. What's on it are all the parts that appear on the actual schematic plus the transformer. These are the parts I ordered for the final version I built.
As of 08/30/14 this BOM totals $102.32 and prices may change over time. You can obviously omit the transformer if you have one already or if you want to use another one such as a toroid. The one I have on the BOM is a large E-I core because it's basically the cheapest one they have that's up to spec.
0-30V_0-3A_BOM.zip
Edit: I've added a Digikey BOM exported as a spreadsheet as an attachment if you need it. If you just want to order the parts I have listed, just register or log in to your Digikey account and go to this link and you should be able to checkout from there by clicking the "Create Cart" button at the bottom of the page.
I have not included the mounting kits for the TO-3 transistors, any heat sinks, a case etc. I figure these things are more of a personal preference and can be had much cheaper elsewhere anyway. What's on it are all the parts that appear on the actual schematic plus the transformer. These are the parts I ordered for the final version I built.
As of 08/30/14 this BOM totals $102.32 and prices may change over time. You can obviously omit the transformer if you have one already or if you want to use another one such as a toroid. The one I have on the BOM is a large E-I core because it's basically the cheapest one they have that's up to spec.
0-30V_0-3A_BOM.zip
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E
elboa8
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
I thought a might as well add my own efforts here. I built my own version of the PSU. ( 0-25v 0-3A). As I had a transformer to hand I tweeked the circuit to suit. I replaced the voltage reference circuit as I found the existing one was not that stable! This one is stable over a wide voltage and temperature range. After a lot of testing I changed the ground reference (pin 4) of the voltage control IC to AFTER the current sense resistor. This made a BIG difference to the regulation performance (0.02%). Hope this helps.
Eric
Eric
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monkfinger
- Oct 4, 2016
- 1
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2016
- Messages
- 1
Hi all
Ok, this is my end result. Built and tested and works quite well.
I started with the version posted at the start of this thread. However I had a couple of problems with the current limiter. I didn't have much success with the current limiter clamping the input of U2 - sometimes it would not go right down to 0V, sometimes it would go just below. Just below was a big problem for me - U2 would start to oscillate, with bad consequences for anything connected to the output of the Q4... It would then drive the output high just when I wanted the current limit to become active :'( I should add that I did not use TL2141 or MC34071s, this might be the root of my problem. I fixed this issue with a small change to circuit layout rather than going to expensive opamps.
My mods (compared to the circuit posted on start of this thread):
* current limit - I removed D9. To replace this, I added another BC548 - the base is driven by the current flowing through the current limit LED. The collector of this BC548 clamps the output of U2 (exactly like the existing BC548 driven by the negative rail). This arrangement means we don't care how close to its supply voltage the output of U3 can go. It avoids the possibility of driving the input of U2 out of spec. Clamping the output of U2 is much more like how the integrated voltage regulators work. It seems better to my mind, to keep U2 out of the loop when current limit is active. [Edit: note that U2 will need a small heatsink with this arrangement]
* some rearrangement of the opamp power connections, for all three opamps... U1 & U3 are run via 15V zener diodes, to give a supply of approx 30V. That allows almost any cheap opamp to be used for U1 & U3 (741s or TL071 etc). U2 is connected to unregulated 44V and to the output side of the 0R47.
* I used a MC33171 opamp for U2. It is high voltage, but much cheaper (they are £0.60 in UK) than TL2141 or MC34071 (both are £5 here). It is a low power IC by comparison.
* 0-30V 4A transformer.
* 2 x 6800uF smoothing caps.a big thanks to the contributors on this thread for their efforts, my project was greatly speeded up by borrowing a lot of their ideas
Edit:
* I also changed the 0R47 to 0R2, as the 0R47 generated too much heat at 3A for my liking. This also means R18 changes to 330K. These two values are not shown on the schematic here.
Ok, this is my end result. Built and tested and works quite well.
I started with the version posted at the start of this thread. However I had a couple of problems with the current limiter. I didn't have much success with the current limiter clamping the input of U2 - sometimes it would not go right down to 0V, sometimes it would go just below. Just below was a big problem for me - U2 would start to oscillate, with bad consequences for anything connected to the output of the Q4... It would then drive the output high just when I wanted the current limit to become active :'( I should add that I did not use TL2141 or MC34071s, this might be the root of my problem. I fixed this issue with a small change to circuit layout rather than going to expensive opamps.
My mods (compared to the circuit posted on start of this thread):
* current limit - I removed D9. To replace this, I added another BC548 - the base is driven by the current flowing through the current limit LED. The collector of this BC548 clamps the output of U2 (exactly like the existing BC548 driven by the negative rail). This arrangement means we don't care how close to its supply voltage the output of U3 can go. It avoids the possibility of driving the input of U2 out of spec. Clamping the output of U2 is much more like how the integrated voltage regulators work. It seems better to my mind, to keep U2 out of the loop when current limit is active. [Edit: note that U2 will need a small heatsink with this arrangement]
* some rearrangement of the opamp power connections, for all three opamps... U1 & U3 are run via 15V zener diodes, to give a supply of approx 30V. That allows almost any cheap opamp to be used for U1 & U3 (741s or TL071 etc). U2 is connected to unregulated 44V and to the output side of the 0R47.
* I used a MC33171 opamp for U2. It is high voltage, but much cheaper (they are £0.60 in UK) than TL2141 or MC34071 (both are £5 here). It is a low power IC by comparison.
* 0-30V 4A transformer.
* 2 x 6800uF smoothing caps.a big thanks to the contributors on this thread for their efforts, my project was greatly speeded up by borrowing a lot of their ideas
Edit:
* I also changed the 0R47 to 0R2, as the 0R47 generated too much heat at 3A for my liking. This also means R18 changes to 330K. These two values are not shown on the schematic here.
Last edited by a moderator:
weightlover
- Oct 27, 2016
- 1
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2016
- Messages
- 1
Hi all, I'm new here and I am also building this project, I will consider the schematic posted by Weightlover
I also need. someone has the PCB and the top with components?
Last edited by a moderator:
repairman2be
- Dec 7, 2016
- 15
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2016
- Messages
- 15
Hi all,
I am interested in Guest elboa8 power supply. Is there a PCB available ready to be printed?
Thanks for any help.
Regards, William
I am interested in Guest elboa8 power supply. Is there a PCB available ready to be printed?
Thanks for any help.
Regards, William
mubin_Sheikh
- Dec 20, 2016
- 1
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2016
- Messages
- 1
hello friends,
I have made power supply as shown this article 30V3A, my problem is, i want set current only 200mA limit, and voltage to 30V, i had tried a lots but each time when i connect load, at 150mA of current voltagedrop becomes 15V, is there any problem in my circuit due to this voltage drop appear. basically it should work like upto 200mA it must give 30V after that voltage goes down but before this lime voltage is going down, I m newer in this field, can anybudy sortout my problem.
I have made power supply as shown this article 30V3A, my problem is, i want set current only 200mA limit, and voltage to 30V, i had tried a lots but each time when i connect load, at 150mA of current voltagedrop becomes 15V, is there any problem in my circuit due to this voltage drop appear. basically it should work like upto 200mA it must give 30V after that voltage goes down but before this lime voltage is going down, I m newer in this field, can anybudy sortout my problem.
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