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Hi Ashish, Nicely explained ... I love reading your article

If you're looking to connect a small audio sensor board directly to a speaker without using an Arduino board, you'll need to design a simple analog circuit to amplify and process the audio signal. Here are a few general steps to consider: Study the specifications and documentation of the Sound Detector board you own to understand its input and output requirements. Determine the specifications of the speaker you intend to use, such as its impedance and power handling capabilities. This information will help you design a circuit that matches the speaker's requirements. Research basic audio amplifier circuits that can be used to amplify the signal from the audio sensor board. Look for amplifier designs that fit your project's needs, such as a single-ended amplifier or a class AB amplifier. Choose appropriate components for your analog circuit, including resistors, capacitors, and transistors or operational amplifiers. The specific values and types of components will depend on the amplifier circuit you select. Design the circuit on a breadboard or a PCB (Printed Circuit Board), following the schematic diagram provided by the amplifier circuit design. Take care to ensure proper connections and component placement. Test the circuit using the audio sensor board as the input and the speaker as the output. Make adjustments as necessary to optimize the sound quality and volume levels. Please note that designing and building analog circuits requires a good understanding of electronics and circuit design principles. If you're not familiar with these concepts, it may be beneficial to seek assistance from an experienced electronics hobbyist or consult resources such as electronics forums or books on audio circuit design.

I believe this is what you need: push botton switch.asc push botton sw.xcf

thank you so much for your suggestion

Good to know that you got it working.

You can add a decoupling capacitor. Sometimes, the output waveform can be clipped due to noise in the power supply. Adding a decoupling capacitor between the power supply and the ground can help reduce the noise and improve the output waveform.

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I really like this circuit. Such a small and compact PCB.

Is Rolling Meadows, IL 60008 near you? see: https://www.solder.net/training-courses/bga-rework-training/ See for low key diy rework: https://www.instructables.com/BGA-rework/

Hi friends. I'm still quite new to this business, but now I'm writing a project that will allow real-time temperature monitoring. So far, this is at a theoretical stage and needs your advice and experience. I'm using a MLT028Q40-5 TFT display with a controller through the driver and it works great. I need help with data to import from an NTC temperature sensor.

I gather the machine has a fixed number of pulses it expects for each type of brew. It counts these via the two magnets. It also monitors the current draw by the motor. If the motor current drops off (no longer grinding) while it has not reach its count of rotations it "thinks" it is out of beans. If it is not out of beans and the motor is really working then it is missing counts at the hall effect sensor is what you are thinking? If it is really is out of beans it would discard the grounds that it has so far also? On second thought if it is missing counts it would run longer and grind to much coffee. So it must be that there are more counts to go and the current to the motor has fallen off?

Breadboards, arduinos, cables.. We all love and work with those but when they are connected together as the hardware of our projects, it can get messy. To help all of us at that point, we've created a solution, first we used it, then sent prototypes out for review and then its now live on Kickstarter waiting for you to reserve yours: ProBUDDY Kits. Here is how it works: The hardware is taken on to our Base Plates and get fixed with special magnetic holders called ProBUDDY's. Then its so easy to work on, carry, store, demonstrate your projects. You can retrieve the components easily for another project. You can store your projects on any vertical (yes!) surfaces and keep your desks clean. And there are more. Here I want to share the Kickstarter link, thank you all for your support; https://www.kickstarter.com/project...y-kits-build-carry-store-your-projects-easily Best Sunday Robotics Team

I am confused with the two SIDACs (Silicon Diode for Alternating Current) in series. They are rated 220-250 volts switching each. 240 mains voltages would be in the order of 340*1,4 or 480 volts peak. About the same as the two SIDACs; not much to switch with? "These tasks of the starter are taken over by two 135 V sidac (or a single 270 V one). The starting voltage is thus 270 V, Which is below the peak value of the mains (about 340 V), but higher than the working voltage of a 20-40 W neon tube." see: https://circuit-diagramz.com/sidac-neon-tube-starter/ I will look at the circuit some more.

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By the way, thanks for the books, Perhaps someone can advise something relevant today?

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Hey guys, I'm trying to make a proximity alarm and having trouble finding info. I can find plenty of examples for projects for an alarm and transmitter where as soon as the transmitter is a certain distance away the alarm flashes. What I'm wanting is the opposite, as soon as the transmitter is within a certain distance the alarm flashes. I'm sure this is as simple but I'm completely new to electronics so have no idea if its as simple as reversing a few things etc??? I don't even know the correct name for this product?? Any help or direction on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hiya, I now cant find the projects I found yesterday sorry... but the below link is a device similar to what I'm looking for, but I'm looking to make this work in reverse (hoping this may help). The distance I'm trying to achieve would be for the alarm to activate if transmitter was anything from 0-10 feet away. http://www.pimall.com/nais/rdiftagalert.html