Hero999

You forgot the attachment What's a fan dimmer? Don't you mean a fan speed controller?

Here are a few products which should do what you want. http://www.grundyagricultural.com/products/energisers/hotline_p80s_helios_solar_electric_fence_energiser_-_0.8j?utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchant&utm_campaign=merchant http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=solar+electric+fence&hl=en&client=opera&hs=wbH&rls=en&channel=suggest&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1920&bih=927&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10988486057481285151&sa=X&ei=AsNaUJZEws7RBeuPgaAE&ved=0CG8Q8wIwAg http://www.agrisellex.co.uk/electric-fence-energisers/solar-fence-energisers/farmer-1000s.html

Please provide more information.

Why is that unusual? It's what you should expect. 24V is the RMS voltage, when fully loaded, the peak will be 34V, fully loaded, but when open circuit the voltage will be up to 20% higher so 50V sounds reasonable.

Looks nice. Could you please post the schematic and code.

Yes, I thought that was weird. I assumed you'd deleted it. Calm down, I'm sure it's an honest mistake or system error.

A simple op-amp buffer amplifier with enough drive capacity could be used to boost the current and an audio isolation transformer to provide isolation. Is the gain critical? How critical is the THD? What are the isolation requirements: peak voltage, frequency?

You're obviously going about this the wrong way. Here's a link to help you: http://remotes.com/store/regent/ht391.html

Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking for. You don't need the relay? Simple just omit it and connect the load in the relay coil's place. What load are you planning to drive? You should consider using a CMOS 555 or replacing it with a CMOS IC (e.g. CD4011) or MOSFETs ( e.g. 2N7000) as the 555 draws too much current to run off such a small battery so it won't last very long.

There's an error in the information. You'll need 1.5A to get 5W with a forward voltage drop of 3.3V. You don't have to worry about the voltage which is self-limited by the LED. The current just has to be limited so a constant current source is all that's required. The LM317 won't really cut it and is only something one would use if they had nothing else to spare. The efficiency at 12V with a 3.3W LED is a pitiful 27.5% and asking it to dissipate >8.7W is a lot, even with a good heat sink. You can buy purpose made ICs and modules for this. Here a few parts which would do what you want: http://www.luxdrive.com/products/buckblock-a009-led-driver/ http://www.luxdrive.com/products/buckpuck-3021-3023-led-driver/ http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Lightline/RCD-24.pdf http://www.xppower.com/pdfs/SF_LDU08-48.pdf http://www.xppower.com/pdfs/SF_LDU05-14.pdf

It looks fine, although I'd say C1 is probably a bit undersized to expect a ripple free output at 3A. I'd recommend increasing C1 to 68,000uF or more. The regulator will probably overheat and shut down, if you attempt to draw the full 3A, at lower voltage settings. A possible solution is to use a centre tapped transformer and tap changer to reduce the voltage to the regulator, at lower voltage settings.

What do you think? I didn't say it's impossible, just that it isn't practical. It's theoretically possible. Do the calculations and you'll see what I'm getting at.

Don't get me wrong, it's not a bad idea and thanks for posting it. Alll I'm saying is there are plent of other toner transfer methods.

There are plenty of schematics available. You need to learn how to use a search engine. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=metal+detector+schematic&hl=en&client=opera&hs=iMn&rls=en-GB&channel=suggest&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=JGkzULTLOcqw0QWaoIDwDg&ved=0CFIQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=608 As you're obviously having difficulty with that. My advice would be to buy an inductive proximity sensor which can give an analogue or logic signal to the microcontroller. Again, a search engine is your friend. https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=opera&rls=en-GB&q=inductive+proximity+sensor&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest

The transistors driving the LEDs form a divide by two counter which changes state on every clap. The counter is triggered by a pulse AC-coupled to the emitters via a 100nF capacitor. All you need to do is add another pair of transistors in the same divide by two counter configuration before the transistor which drives the relay. It would make it easier to explain if all of the components were numbered i.e. Tr1, Tr2, C1, C2 etc. Here are a couple of links to other websites showing a similar circuit. http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/bistable.html http://ch00ftech.com/2012/07/10/transistor-clock-part-2-prescaler/

Many old attachments were lost when the server crashed awhile ago.

Presumably you're replacing the PSU because it's broken. Did you try to repair it? Maybe you can just order a replacement board from the manufacturer. Have you tried reverse engineering it by tracing the PCB and searching the Internet for the part numbers on the marked components?

It's possible to do that. What output voltage do you require? A 12V transformer will only give you a maximum of 8V out. The full scale voltage is set by altering the values of R5 and R6 but other modifications will be necessary. You need to understand the circuit before making such changes. The original circuit contained many errors which have been corrected by audioguru, in the thread linked below: http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=19066.0

Sorry if my previous post came across as a little rude. I've edited it. I think your best course of action is to ask the manufacturer for a service manual which should give a schematic.

I've just had a quick look at it and decided I don't like it because it uses childish graphics rather than standard schematic symbols. Is there a way to change this? I find it very patronising and makes the schematics hard to read.

At what current? Have you asked the manufacturer?

http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=19361.0

I suggest you take another look at the data sheet.

What's the minimum input voltage? The LM317 will do. It'll need additional components to work up to 10A. A siwtching regulator is probably the best solution for you. Refer to page 19 of the datasheet. You'll need to uprate the components in the examples to get it to work up to 10A. http://www.ee.buffalo.edu/courses/elab/LM117.pdf

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