HarryA

Forums like this one would be more useful for your questions. They have folks there that have a lot of combined experience. https://www.solarpaneltalk.com/

What code book? And why do you care? Unplug the refrigerator and plug it into one of these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293616232230?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%d%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

As this was in response to a previous post that was removed I will replace with a joke: Wife texts husband on a cold winter morning: "Windows frozen, won't open "Husband texts back: "Gently pour some hot water over it and then gently tap edges with hammer." Wife texts back 10 minutes later: "Computer really messed up now."

I would think these 5 volt and 5 or 8 ampere power supplies would be useful for micro-controllers, etc. https://www.sciplus.com/8a-5vdc-power-supply-65520-p

If you are handy with a soldering iron you can get a push button switch with potentiometer on ebay. for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/113927101102?hash=item1a86959aae:g:TyAAAOSw6ShdqKXJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsCTccvK8zt8P7ay7xO2JNnQVqK54hb11np% You would need to match the potentiometer on the switch with the one on the timer board. You could replace the potentiometer and switch on a timer board like this perhaps: https://www.amazon.com/Module-Adjustable-Timing-Switch-1-10sec/dp/B07SL5HBZ9/ref=sr_1_58?crid=3806JFZG2WCBO&keywords=time+delay+board&qid=1670774252&sprefix=time+delay+board%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-58 Look for one with the delay you need.

"Search for the power board for a Tektronix oscilloscope mod. TDS460. The P/N is PS1690 rev.A" In the future you may use https://translate.google.com/ There are a number of boards on ebay.com for the TDS460. You will have to scroll down to find them. See: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?campid=5338192028&kw=TDS460&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&toolid=20004

Is Rolling Meadows, IL 60008 near you? see: https://www.solder.net/training-courses/bga-rework-training/ See for low key diy rework: https://www.instructables.com/BGA-rework/

You need to supply a link/url to the DXP software you are using. There are numerous software packages called DXP.

see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell for chemical composition of the CR2032 cell. The C tells you it is Lithium and Manganse Dioxide.

You have been well answered on the numerous forums you have posted this question on. I do not see anyway to post links now - Admin got sick of having to delete them?

I would think you would not need a converter given: "Discharge current is software and electronically regulated using a solid state switch and fan cooled electronic load" Why can't you get the energy/power by simply charging a capacitor over some time interval? Given work W = 1/2*C*V*V in joules. You may need to make allowance for the capacitor's ESR either charging or discharging. For others: Equivalent series resistance (ESR) describes losses associated with moving a charge through a capacitor. See: https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/simple-explanation-of-capacitor-esr

I would think shorting the output would kill the converter thus acting as a smokey fuse. The solar power folks use converters that supply a constant output for varying input voltages. One would like a converter that supplies say 5v as the capacitor discharges from say 12v to 7v. Perhaps this type: https://www.amazon.com/DEVMO-Adjustable-Converter-XL6009-Voltage/dp/B07SZQMKLW Also searching on the internet for "solar dc up down converter" will give you some useful information.

Try measuring the input resistance at the +Vin and -Vin. On the up/down converters I have they measure 400k to 2meg ohms. Perhaps comparing the two would be helpful. One has to expect failures from these inexpensive Chinese modules.

Perhaps one could use a dc to dc converter without loading the capacitor, thus not discharging it quickly? They made various types for various voltage combinations. See for example: https://www.amazon.com/Aceirmc-Current-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B082XQC2DS among many. This subject comes up often on the internet; I see a Youtube video for replacing the battery in an automobile with capacitors; I need to look at that one. If that interest you I have a 12v to 5v converter I could try.

Yes they hide it well! Try: https://www.sierraic.com//buy_online/datasheet/TNETV1051EA or Ti directly. Good luck.

Sorry they are beyond me. Why would one use a 3 amp fuse that trips at 6 amps? What does the 15 and 50 amps got to do with it? How would it allow current that high? Beware there are a lot of fake components out there. I got some ICs via Amazon.com lately they had the TI symbol on them but also "made in China" on them; never seen TI chips with that on them before. For other viewers:

Time plays a big factor with PTCs; 26. Recovery time: The recovery time after PTC thermistor action should not exceed 60S. see: https://www.ntcsensors.com/Technical_parameters_of_PTC_resettable_fuse/#:~:text=Under limited conditions%2C the highest voltage that the,may be broken down and cannot be recovered. Also there is an interesting video that discusses PTCs here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeaqyD3ZYjI

I think it would be a worth while experiment to increase the current flow in the motor circuit by say 200ma. From the next to the bottom table above that would push it above the 200 ma minimum for mild coffee but not put into the 800ma maximum. One would need to find the motor voltage in order to calculate the required added shunt resistor (across the motor terminals. I gather the beans never hang up within the machine so that the flow to the grinder is interrupted.

I gather the machine has a fixed number of pulses it expects for each type of brew. It counts these via the two magnets. It also monitors the current draw by the motor. If the motor current drops off (no longer grinding) while it has not reach its count of rotations it "thinks" it is out of beans. If it is not out of beans and the motor is really working then it is missing counts at the hall effect sensor is what you are thinking? If it is really is out of beans it would discard the grounds that it has so far also? On second thought if it is missing counts it would run longer and grind to much coffee. So it must be that there are more counts to go and the current to the motor has fallen off?

There are devices similar to what you want on the market. This one has 5 minute delay. Perhaps if you poke around on ebay or amazon you could find a 10 minute one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293677138457?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM Else if you want to roll your own we could look at how to do.

Are you looking to emulate one of these? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=measure+appliance+energy+use+with+a+plug-in+power+meter&crid=3QLC3ECDYF6C1&sprefix You asked this question July 8 on eepower.com and never folowed up on their question to you. Are working for pcbway.com ?

From back in the old days: https://web.archive.org/web/20070926045222/http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php

That is not much information to go by. Perhaps you could use a MC1455/555 as a monostable employed as a switch; it has a rise time of 100ns. Plus a ZVNL120A N-CHANNEL ENHANCEMENT MODE VERTICAL DMOS FET it is good to 200v. It has a rise time of 8ns.

I am confused with the two SIDACs (Silicon Diode for Alternating Current) in series. They are rated 220-250 volts switching each. 240 mains voltages would be in the order of 340*1,4 or 480 volts peak. About the same as the two SIDACs; not much to switch with? "These tasks of the starter are taken over by two 135 V sidac (or a single 270 V one). The starting voltage is thus 270 V, Which is below the peak value of the mains (about 340 V), but higher than the working voltage of a 20-40 W neon tube." see: https://circuit-diagramz.com/sidac-neon-tube-starter/ I will look at the circuit some more.

Search on the internet for "need help electronic/relay problem phone horn". As he posted this on 5 or 6 other forums you may find useful information there.