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HarryA

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Everything posted by HarryA

  1. I would think you would not need a converter given: "Discharge current is software and electronically regulated using a solid state switch and fan cooled electronic load" Why can't you get the energy/power by simply charging a capacitor over some time interval? Given work W = 1/2*C*V*V in joules. You may need to make allowance for the capacitor's ESR either charging or discharging. For others: Equivalent series resistance (ESR) describes losses associated with moving a charge through a capacitor. See: https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/simple-explanation-of-capacitor-esr
  2. I would think shorting the output would kill the converter thus acting as a smokey fuse. The solar power folks use converters that supply a constant output for varying input voltages. One would like a converter that supplies say 5v as the capacitor discharges from say 12v to 7v. Perhaps this type: https://www.amazon.com/DEVMO-Adjustable-Converter-XL6009-Voltage/dp/B07SZQMKLW Also searching on the internet for "solar dc up down converter" will give you some useful information.
  3. Try measuring the input resistance at the +Vin and -Vin. On the up/down converters I have they measure 400k to 2meg ohms. Perhaps comparing the two would be helpful. One has to expect failures from these inexpensive Chinese modules.
  4. Perhaps one could use a dc to dc converter without loading the capacitor, thus not discharging it quickly? They made various types for various voltage combinations. See for example: https://www.amazon.com/Aceirmc-Current-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B082XQC2DS among many. This subject comes up often on the internet; I see a Youtube video for replacing the battery in an automobile with capacitors; I need to look at that one. If that interest you I have a 12v to 5v converter I could try.
  5. Yes they hide it well! Try: https://www.sierraic.com//buy_online/datasheet/TNETV1051EA or Ti directly. Good luck.
  6. Sorry they are beyond me. Why would one use a 3 amp fuse that trips at 6 amps? What does the 15 and 50 amps got to do with it? How would it allow current that high? Beware there are a lot of fake components out there. I got some ICs via Amazon.com lately they had the TI symbol on them but also "made in China" on them; never seen TI chips with that on them before. For other viewers:
  7. Time plays a big factor with PTCs; 26. Recovery time: The recovery time after PTC thermistor action should not exceed 60S. see: https://www.ntcsensors.com/Technical_parameters_of_PTC_resettable_fuse/#:~:text=Under limited conditions%2C the highest voltage that the,may be broken down and cannot be recovered. Also there is an interesting video that discusses PTCs here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeaqyD3ZYjI
  8. I think it would be a worth while experiment to increase the current flow in the motor circuit by say 200ma. From the next to the bottom table above that would push it above the 200 ma minimum for mild coffee but not put into the 800ma maximum. One would need to find the motor voltage in order to calculate the required added shunt resistor (across the motor terminals. I gather the beans never hang up within the machine so that the flow to the grinder is interrupted.
  9. I gather the machine has a fixed number of pulses it expects for each type of brew. It counts these via the two magnets. It also monitors the current draw by the motor. If the motor current drops off (no longer grinding) while it has not reach its count of rotations it "thinks" it is out of beans. If it is not out of beans and the motor is really working then it is missing counts at the hall effect sensor is what you are thinking? If it is really is out of beans it would discard the grounds that it has so far also? On second thought if it is missing counts it would run longer and grind to much coffee. So it must be that there are more counts to go and the current to the motor has fallen off?
  10. There are devices similar to what you want on the market. This one has 5 minute delay. Perhaps if you poke around on ebay or amazon you could find a 10 minute one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293677138457?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM Else if you want to roll your own we could look at how to do.
  11. Are you looking to emulate one of these? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=measure+appliance+energy+use+with+a+plug-in+power+meter&crid=3QLC3ECDYF6C1&sprefix You asked this question July 8 on eepower.com and never folowed up on their question to you. Are working for pcbway.com ?
  12. From back in the old days: https://web.archive.org/web/20070926045222/http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php
  13. That is not much information to go by. Perhaps you could use a MC1455/555 as a monostable employed as a switch; it has a rise time of 100ns. Plus a ZVNL120A N-CHANNEL ENHANCEMENT MODE VERTICAL DMOS FET it is good to 200v. It has a rise time of 8ns.
  14. I am confused with the two SIDACs (Silicon Diode for Alternating Current) in series. They are rated 220-250 volts switching each. 240 mains voltages would be in the order of 340*1,4 or 480 volts peak. About the same as the two SIDACs; not much to switch with? "These tasks of the starter are taken over by two 135 V sidac (or a single 270 V one). The starting voltage is thus 270 V, Which is below the peak value of the mains (about 340 V), but higher than the working voltage of a 20-40 W neon tube." see: https://circuit-diagramz.com/sidac-neon-tube-starter/ I will look at the circuit some more.
  15. Search on the internet for "need help electronic/relay problem phone horn". As he posted this on 5 or 6 other forums you may find useful information there.
  16. Your BMS (HW-391): Product Model: HW-391 Charging Voltage: DC 8.4-9V Version: Balance Constant Discharge Current: Max 20A (If the heat dissipation environment is not good, please reduce the use of load current) Constant charging current: Max 10A) https://makerselectronics.com/product/lithium-battery-charger-protection-module-bms-2s-20a-7-4v-balanced-version Some say a BMS (battery management system) is not a charger but there seems to be come confusion here. One thing that is not clear is what is the nature of your 8.4 volt power supply. Also is the BMS preventing the battieries from discharging below the allowable voltage level for a li-ion battery.
  17. If you use a 12v and 3 ampere charger that would require a little over 36 watts. A 12v and 1 ampere charger would be about 12+ watts. That would be less load on the power supply. Assuming the power supply is the limiting factor here. The slower charge rate would not be a problem if you do not have power outages more than once a day?
  18. If you do not see the 8.4 volts at the 5v to 12v converter it suggest that the power supply has gone into a thermal overload state. Perhaps due to the drain from the charger. Switching it off resets it perhaps.
  19. The meter needs calibration. My AstroAl M2KOR has for DC current: accuracy +/- ( 1.2% rdg + 5 dgts). Whatever that means. Also "when large currents are measured the continuous measurement should not exceed 15 seconds".
  20. My old Scope multimeter has a 0.01 ohm shunt resistor in the 10 ampere circuit going by the schematic. That is not much of an intrusion into a circuit. I would think the analog meter is most likely the most accurate meter in your case. What does the clamp on meter give you? Knowing the on and off time of the pulses one could calculate the peak current from the one ampere reading?
  21. This is easier to do today with microcontollers like the Arduino UNO for example. Else you can fabricate it from logic circuits using a number of timers like the MC1455 (a newer NE555). I can help you with either approach but recommend the microcontroller. If you are not familiar with them it would be a good project to learn on. You will notice there are a lot of solar trackers on Ebay for less cost then to make one.
  22. "none of those circuits are the one I posted with the pnp transistor connected to the gate. " How about this one? With thanks to homemade-circuits.com In LTspice simulation all I ever get is the TRIAC off or fully on. As there is no phase control, because there is no relationship between the transistor and the AC supply. It simple allows the TRIAC to conduct or not. In theory you can connect the transistor to your microcontroller and use the circuit as a replacement for a mechanical relay. There is a problem with the lack of isolation from the ac mains. That is why optical isolators are used.
  23. See figure 5 here for similar circuit: https://www.homemade-circuits.com/simple-triac-triggering-circuits-explained/
  24. You are starting with a very primitive circuit. There are many complete TRIAC circuits to be had via internet search. LTspice does not have a TRIAC model because Analog does not manufacture them. If you search on TRIAC on Youtube.com you will find numerous videos on the subject. This one has information on finding and download a TRIAC model for LTspice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRz1gql-BWw Expand the 'show more'. Also missing are the requirements for your circuit; 1 amp or a 100amp?.
  25. There are numerous videos on Youtube on uploading to the Atmega328. This video has three ways to up load to the Atmegs328. Two methods use a UNO and one using the FTDI. The second method using the UNO gives one insight into how the loading process works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sww1mek5rHU Also this one uses the FTDI and uploads as an UNO board (if I put the url in here even as text the stupid video gets inserted here and I see no way to delete it). Search on " 1-Day Project: Build Your Own Arduino UNO for $5 " on Youtube. Some of these may give you insight to your problem. The circuit from the article may not be the best. Seeing what circuits they use maybe helpful. I am having a $%^*& time with this post! This my third attempt.
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