audioguru2
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Yes you found the latest parts list and schematic. The transformer can be 28VAC/4.2A or 30VAC/4.2A. A higher current rating is fine.
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pleease don't be angry with me, i am new at eletronic's world as you can see,
but i would like to ask just one more favor, i tried to put at Proteus,
but it doesn't work well, my circuit is ugly, you have the latest's ARES project? i mean, like this way....
THANKS A LOT MAN ^^
but i would like to ask just one more favor, i tried to put at Proteus,
but it doesn't work well, my circuit is ugly, you have the latest's ARES project? i mean, like this way....
THANKS A LOT MAN ^^
audioguru2
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There have been a few pcb designs for the latest circuit. Yours is another one but I am sorry mthat I don't have time to check it.
hehehe i don't want you to check that, that is not my pcb, that's the originals circuit's pcb,
i want the diagram,so i can print that and make my board because my diagram is wrong so....
please i don't want the .png or .gif, i want the proteus or pcb archive, or the pdf.... please guru,please
i want the diagram,so i can print that and make my board because my diagram is wrong so....
please i don't want the .png or .gif, i want the proteus or pcb archive, or the pdf.... please guru,please
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audioguru, I have an other question: does C1 have to be exactly 12000uF? I've found only 10000uF. Do I have to add two more 1000uF in parallel (or one 2200uF [?]) or the circuit will work without problems only with the 10000uF capacitor?
audioguru2
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I selected 12000uF because it works best and is a common value. 10000uF will be almost the same.
How many uF is in your "10000uf" capacitor when its tolerance is plus or minus 20%? It might be as low as only 8000uF which might cause ripple when the output is 30V at 3A.
audioguru2
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I don't know why you can't buy 12000uF but since you can only get 10000uf then try one to see if the project needs more uF.
It's because I already have all the parts, but the capacitor. Also in the country I live 12000uF capacitors are a bit hard to get. I could order one from Farnell, UK, but the delivery would cost me as much as the capacitor and it's not worth it.
Thank you for your replies, I will try with the one I can get. I hope it will be ok.
Thank you for your replies, I will try with the one I can get. I hope it will be ok.
hello. i am new in forum. i checked yesterday almost all 118 pages and i have to admit that you are all amazing. Audioguru you are doing really good job. I already built today 3A version (will upload pictures after testing it). I found also picmaster's Schematic and i am interested to build 5A version also. Can u point me where to find picmaster posts and part list. is there any forum where can i read about 5A project?
thanks alot for answers
thanks alot for answers
audioguru2
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I don't know why there are two threads with (almost) the same name.
I answered your other post.
Please do not post the same questions twice.
I answered your other post.
Please do not post the same questions twice.
Hello Gentlemen,
good night in the first place!
I am writing this post because I'm riding the circuit posted by PicMaster (30V and 5A) and would like to know one thing, it would be possible to change the tle2141 by the TL081, because it is easier to find here in Brazil.
I appreciate everyone's attention.
good night in the first place!
I am writing this post because I'm riding the circuit posted by PicMaster (30V and 5A) and would like to know one thing, it would be possible to change the tle2141 by the TL081, because it is easier to find here in Brazil.
I appreciate everyone's attention.
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audioguru2
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No, because it is completely different.vip1002 said:
The TLE2141 and MC34071 opamps were selected because:
1) Their max allowed supply voltage is 44V and they do not need a negative supply voltage. The TL081 max allowed supply voltage is only 36V and they need a huge negative supply voltage.
2) The inputs of a TLE2141 and MC34071 work at 0V when there is no negative supply. The inputs of a TL081 do not work if they are within 3V from the negative supply which is +3V with no negative supply.
3) The output of a TL081 has a problem called "Opamp Phase Inversion" where the output suddenly goes high if the input voltage is too close to 0V with no negative supply.
4) The TLE2141 and MC34071 are inexpensive and are available anywhere in North America.
audioguru2
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I copied your schematic from PhotoBucket because it is too small here.
Even at PhotoBucket it is too small because its parts are spread apart too much.
I tried to enlarge it but then it was too blurry.
Its very low contrast makes everything look faint. I increased the contrast and it looks much better but it is still too small to read.
View attachment 41626
Even at PhotoBucket it is too small because its parts are spread apart too much.
I tried to enlarge it but then it was too blurry.
Its very low contrast makes everything look faint. I increased the contrast and it looks much better but it is still too small to read.
View attachment 41626
oh i see... ok there is full quality scheme. sorry one more time
http://www.box.com/s/5co1y61jyyke8uc4utcz
download it for full quality and thanks a lot for your help and time.
http://www.box.com/s/5co1y61jyyke8uc4utcz
download it for full quality and thanks a lot for your help and time.
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audioguru2
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You should learn how to post schematics here instead of over there.
Your new post is the same with its parts spread out too much so everything is small. When enlarged then it is too blurry. It has no contrast.
I can't see ANYTHING on your schematic. Can you see anything?
View attachment 41627
Your new post is the same with its parts spread out too much so everything is small. When enlarged then it is too blurry. It has no contrast.
I can't see ANYTHING on your schematic. Can you see anything?
View attachment 41627
sorry but i CAN NOT attach any image or anything on this forum 
dont know why but i am getting every time when i try error.
there is one more link there is 2400dpi picture
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635567/pcb2%20%281%29.png
dont know why but i am getting every time when i try error. there is one more link there is 2400dpi picture
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/18635567/pcb2%20%281%29.png
audioguru2
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It is simple to attach a schematic to your post:
1) During your reply, click on Additional Options.
2) Click on browse and locate the schematic's file on your hard drive.
3) Click on the file then click Open and it will be placed in the Attach box.
4) Post your reply then your schematic will be attached here.
Can't you increase the contrast since now it is pastel and pastel and is hard to see?
Can't you place parts closer together on the schematic so that all parts will look bigger?
Your new image that was linked looks better but it still lacks contrast.
Its parts are still far apart so it is huge which makes the parts too small. When enlarged it bigger as my neighbourhood since the parts are blocks apart.
Sorry but I can't spend hours scrolling through your huge schematic.
Here is the difference between its original image and the same image with contrast added:
View attachment 41628
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