The latest revision (schematic Rev2 and parts list Rev3) is reliable, inexpensive and works well. View attachment 41598Comwiz999 said:I would like to build this circuit and I am looking for the best working solution..There are so many revisions I am not sure which is best.
Can anybody please advise me on this?
2x15VAC is fine (30VAC) if it is rated for 126VA or more or 4.2A AC or more.I seem to be having a problem sourcing the parts. The closest the biggest supplier in the country can only offer is a 2x15VAC transformer. Can I use this? Otherwise, a 24VAC transformer is availible. Is there any good options for this voltage?
Yes that is the correct IC. The E-Bay seller is in my country and sells it at almost double its normal cost here. I don't know how much the shipping will cost to your far away country.hello everyone ( specially audioguru "")
I'm from Croatia, and i can't anywhere buy tle2141 or mc34071, so i will buy it on ebay. Now, i want to know is this right one tle2141cp (or is it possible to buy some substitue?) ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Operational-Amplifier-TLE2141CP-/330629861183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item4cfb134f3f#ht_1331wt_1110 )
What think about this???Received the following email from Ivan on 02/2010:
Ok. I bulid your project about a day ago. Mounted all the parts on the pcb and then concluded that there is some serious problems in this schematics. First, 2N3055 will overheat, so you have to connect two of them in parallel with emitter resistors 0.1ohm/5w. Second, maximal voltage between '+' and '-' of TL081 is 36VDC.If you connect them as it is shown in this circuit diagram that voltage will be about 45VDC, so they will burn down immediately. To fix this problem you have to reconnect all pins number 7 of U1, U2 and U3, emitter of Q3 and 'upper' end of R19 to out of an 7809 with 18V zener diode between 'common' pin and '-' of 3300uF cap, and input of 7809 connect to '+' of the same cap. Now, on pin number 7 and mentioned parts you'll have 27VDC, and total voltage will be 32.6VDC. Third, instead of using 3300uF, use 4700 or 6800uF/63VDC to reduce the ripple on higher currents (2-3A). The rest of the circuit is perfect. I like it cause it is so inexpensive and easy to make with those simple reconstructions i mentioned.
With 27V on the output opamp then the max output of the project will be only about 21V, not 30V.optimistic said:I found some interestin solution about original sheme here http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/power/001/index.html
What think about this???
I'am from Bulgaria and i can't find the newer opamps. I need to find some other solution.....audioguru said:With 27V on the output opamp then the max output of the project will be only about 21V, not 30V.
You would have the same 21V max output if you used a 21V transformer. Then only a single 2N3055 output transistor is needed and the driver transistor will be cooler.
Why not use the newer 44V opamps and a -1.3V negative supply instead so that the output can be 30V?
Look at www.farnell.com to see that they supply modern electronic parts in your country.I'am from Bulgaria and i can't find the newer opamps. I need to find some other solution.....
Many thanks. As I do not anticipate using the supply at 3A a lot, nor for long periods I think I will go for this option and just be sensible about suitable cooling.A 120VA transformer is slightly too small. Then when the project is supplying 3A continuously the transformer will be slightly warmer than its max allowed temperature.
Inside a box it might get too hot.
Hi Andreas.Hello.
I'm new here.. Hello
Do I really have to read through all the 85 pages to find out where I can get an updated BOM, schematic, and eagle drawings?
Thanks.
Andreas
What if the transformer is bigger? Like 150VA. would that be a problem?A 120VA transformer is slightly too small. Then when the project is supplying 3A continuously the transformer will be slightly warmer than its max allowed temperature.
Inside a box it might get too hot.