Staigen

Hi Anyone else that have problems reach E-Lab? We know Ante, Audioguru, me, Bjorn and a few more have or had problems. I figured out a way to be removed from the "APF:s block list" , but is there others that dont know how to? //Staigen

Hi Zeppelin Yes, i can, but i leave it up to you to figure out and tell us how it work! Hint, the forward drop over each 1N5401 is about 0.7V at full output. //Staigen

Ok //Staigen

Hi wvengineer ALL IP-numbers beginning with 192.168.xxx.xxx are local and ar NOT your real IP-number seen by internet! //Staigen

Hi there again wvengineer Its annoying when you cant reach E-Lab, it is somthing with E-Lab that appeal to me, that isn't at the other forums. Do you know your IP adress at home? //Staigen

Hey, didn't I made a posting to this topic, why have that been removed? Hey, moderators, why? //Staigen

Hi there wvengineer A list blocking IP-numbers do exist, i dont know who or what is creating it, or managing it, but it is there! Hey, Mixos and Moderators, do you know anything about "APF:s block list" ? I at least expect an answer from you. //Staigen

Hi Diarmuid A 40V CT @ 200VA for T1 is just fine, no need to rise the caps for that, but 10,000 uF caps will make the ripple less, always good, 40 Volts caps is fine here. For T2 you only need a 20 VA tranny, 50 Volt without CT is just fine here, and a cap of 4700 uF @ 80V or 100V is just fine here. The primary fuse(F1) maybee need to be increased somewhat, test! And, not more than 1.5 Amps, i think. //Staigen

Hi nikhil arora Her you have your requested cirquit to get 3 to 5 Volt DC from 230 Volt AC without transformer, as a matter of fact, there is 2 of them, one with only positive output related to common, and one with both positive and negative output related to common. [move]A little VARNING here! This is LETHAL![/move] //Staigen

Hi, i'm back If you look closely at rectifier 2 and its surrounding parts, you see that the CT of tranny 2 is not needed, no load is connected to it. By removing the CT connection and one of the filter caps you get lower ripple. The remaining filter cap must have a higher voltage rating thou, 80V or 100V is enough! Then it is the regulators! If you have a short or overload they are going to blow, there is no current limiting to talk about! I havent looked at the rest of the project! //Staigen

Hi This device, can you describe it, is it something you are building, some sort of project or something? Else you could take your laptop and a handscanner to the library! Dont they have a scanner? ;D //Staigen

Hi Diarmuid, welcome to this foum, nice to have you here ;D Here you get at least some answers to your questions! :) The tranny(short for transformer) T1 should, according to the specs, be a 150 VA type, and if it is going to put out 4 Amps, that's a little bit on the low side, i belive! The tranny T2 should, also according to the specs, be a 20 VA type, yours are only rated at 6 VA! This is Diode Bridge, rectifier bridges, the DB1 is a 25 Amp type and DB2 is a 5 Amp type I come back later with some more about this PSU later, i have to go //Staigen

Ok, how much did you have to pay for them? In euro, please! //Staigen

Hi Do Gozo belongs to Malta? Malta? Isn't that EU? I can buy a pair of BF494 for you, and send to you in a letter. //Staigen

Hi Shahriar A scanner do that for you, they have that at the Library, or at least a copier! :) Than you scan it in when you come home. ;D //Staigen

Hi gogo2520 "Japanese" makers usally delete the 2S in front of their transistors type-number! ??? //Staigen

Hi Bert I did not read the article so closely, but i think thats no problem with using the buildt-in regulators, i will read the article later and come back here with a reply, but at the moment i think the buildt-in regulators of the Bosch alternators are one of the best on the market. //Staigen

Hi mettula Where in the world are you living, the BF494 is one of the most common HF-transistors in the world! ;D To gogo2520 The B1382 can be a 2SB1382,

Hi there Bert, and welcome to this forum! :) First, before you do anything, what is the brand of the alternator? If it have a regulator buildt in, use that one! It is made for the alternator! The main reason that Richard Perez buildt his "field controler" is that Chrysler alternators dont have buildt in regulators. //Staigen

Hi again robotgangsta I had to extract the book first, thereof the delay, sorry But here is the schematic, right out of the book, copy and paste As you can see, the transistor is a NPN, and if you look carefully in the book, you see how to connect everything. BTW, have you read the book carefully from the beginning? ;D //Staigen

Hi Ok, i belive i have that one, i will check out the project there and come back //Staigen

Hi there robotgangsta I think we need a little more info, is it battery driven or mains? The project won't work since the transistor i a PNP! Whats the purpose of the diode? The uppermost one! The LEDs in paralell? //Staigen

Hi again Inuyasha Here is the second file, and, you shall use the RAR archiver for unpack, not ZIP! Well, here it is: [attachment deleted by admin]

Hi Inuyasha Due to file size restrictions in email-boxes and here on this site it was not possible to send the PDF file, its more than 10 Mb large! I upload it here instead, in two parts, as a RAR archive! This is how you extract the files: Put the two files in a temporary directory, start the RAR archiver, go to the temporary directory and mark the biggest file, then click "extract to". Follow the instructions then. Here's the first file: [attachment deleted by admin]

Hi A simple one, use schmitt-triggers TTL: use a 7414 or similar, connect a 10K resistor to + and a electrolytic cap to ground CMOS 4000 series: use a schmitt and a resistor to + and a cap to - or a resistor to - and a cap to + //Staigen