HarryA

Is it me or is the forum running out of toner? The font seems to be getting lighter over time. I can not adjust the browser to improve it. Also at login there is no physical response; the login area is down below the screen so one thinks nothing happened. Just trying to be helpful 😀

Although it is for the Arduino there is a library plus others here that maybe helpful for you to look over: https://github.com/deskwizard/TDA7418_arduino scroll down to see the implemented functions.

What are you connecting the PCF8575 to? You most likely need to include some type of library.

You can find some information on the sleeve balum that maybe helpful here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dipole_antenna

I would think you need a power supply that is USB C compatible and supplies 15 volts like this one perhaps: https://www.amazon.com/ZMI-zPower-Turbo-Power-Adapter/dp/B07D64QLQ1/ref=sxin_10?ascsubtag=amzn1.osa.36fe220c-4964-4c9f-ae33-99b6c0c7c1df.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&creativeASIN=B07D64QLQ1&crid=22R39DEACHL6V&cv_ct_cx=usb+c+wall+charger&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osa.36fe220c-4964-4c9f-ae33-99b6c0c7c1df.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-single-source-gl-ranking&dchild=1&keywords=usb+c+wall+charger&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B07D64QLQ1&pd_rd_r=469feb9c-4fd4-4a62-9cee-bd7d3d9bc4b1&pd_rd_w=XpVfQ&pd_rd_wg=6mOQo&pf_rd_p=26c7e498-3189-4918-a321-ec25e32964ce&pf_rd_r=M6B5K23BD7AP9JZRKZ2Q&qid=1602096804&sprefix=USB+-C+charger%2Caps%2C234&sr=1-1-d9dc7690-f7e1-44eb-ad06-aebbef559a37&tag=thewire06oa-20 Plus a charger that has connections for balenced charging: https://www.amazon.com/11-1V-Balance-Lithium-Battery-Protection/dp/B07JMY631D/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=balanced+li+ion+3s+charger&qid=1602101378&sr=8-27 You can program the ZY12PDN to default to 15 volts instead of 5 volts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIHj3qMRqqE I never found a ZY12PDN datasheet.

I would disconnect one end of R35 and see if that fixes the problem or just replace it. It maybe breaking down under the higher voltage?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/119606/Panasonic-Sc-Dm3.html#manual

If you compare your board with the one on Ebay that one looks like the better board. You may gain some insight by comparing the P6? on your board with the three in the schematic and see if it connects the same as one of them. This is the schematic of the Viber12a in a battery charger.

There are used Cherokee International power supplies on ebay.com if that is any help.

Yes, you are not the only one with that problem! See the circuit here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-DSW-PRO-500-Subwoofer-Amp-Plate-Not-Working-For-Parts-Repair/184441091699?hash=item2af18bb673:g:2~QAAOSwEkxfWY2A I was thinking you could get the correct parts from that one but no such good luck.

The eight leaded DIP is a " Low power offline switched-mode power supply primary switcher" see: file:///C:/Users/harry/AppData/Local/Temp/viper12a-e.pdf The larger diode P6? maybe a protection diode to protect from over-voltage. The two smaller diodes most likely are rectifiers used as part of the power supply. The question is what caused the fault that damaged the components. You need to investigate that before replacing the components else they may just blowout again. Try drawing out that part of the circuit to get insight into the circuit.

see: https://www.nteinc.com/semiconductors/ComplPr.php They list matched complementary pairs that maybe helpful like the NTE128/NTE129 at 80 volts and 1 ampere. And many others as well.

There is an article "Design Project2 - BCD Calculator" that maybe helpful. http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~ece352/fall02/old_project/p2.pdf

Hunter College has a course in electronics that is online. That maybe helpful: Lessons are ElectronicsLab1.pdf through ElectronicsLab15.pdf http://www.hunter.cuny.edu/physics/courses/physics222/repository/files/pdf/ "Practical Electronics for Inventors" by Scherz and Monk is a very good book by not cheap.

The good news with the IR2153 is that it has a 50% duty cycle. The bad news is that you can not change it like in the 555 timer. You can change the frequency which would change the impedance at the coil/transformer which may give you some control of the output with the potentiometer PR1. Perhaps a larger potentiometer? Others may find the two schematics here easier to follow - without all the bells and whistles of this one. https://www.homemade-circuits.com/half-bridge-mosfet-driver-ic-irs21531d/#:~:text=Application Note%3A The main application of this IC,for driving mains CFL lamps from 12V supplies.

from Wikipedia: = (K+L)(K+M)(L+N)(M+P)(N+Q)(P+Q) = (K+LM)(N+LQ)(P+MQ) = (KN+KLQ+LMN+LMQ)(P+MQ) = KNP + KLPQ + LMNP + LMPQ + KMNQ + KLMQ + LMNQ + LMQ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- K * N+LQ + LM*(N+LQ) K * N+LQ = KN+KLQ and LM*(N+LQ) = LMN+LMQ for the : (KN+KLQ+LMN+LMQ) for the fourth line multiply the third line by P and then by MQ from (P+MQ)

The capacitance reactance of the 100nf would be in the order of 26.6K so that could give you a current in the order of a few milli-amperes. The leakage current of the varistor is less than 20 micro-amperes for the 7D471K.

You can get timers that will go down to 1 second that maybe helpful. For example: "7-Day Programmable, Minimum Setting Time is 1 Second " https://www.amazon.com/NEARPOW-Multifunctional-Programmable-Countdown-Electrical/dp/B07QJ3K43N/ref=sr_1_118_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=electrical+timer&link_code=qs&qid=1596596156&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-118-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRjRDTVBKVFVSMDhIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTQwNzE4MUlLQVhNSk1WUzg5SyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTU5OTM3M0dLT0IwMTZDVVpSNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= You can also get 110 volt solenoids that would work off the timer. For example. https://www.amazon.com/Dormeyer-Laminated-Solenoid-Arcade-2005-M-1/dp/B00LNB2R5Q/ref=psdc_15731411_t1_B000CCNGMU If you need a dc solenoid you can get a small power supply that works with the timer. For example. https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-110-220V-Cigarette-Purifier/dp/B075FPQ2YQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=120+to+12+volt+converter&link_code=qs&qid=1596632952&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-4&tag=mozilla-20 And 12 volt solenoids are readily available: https://www.amazon.com/RuiLing-JF-0730B-Frame-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B07QTKL4FV/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=12+volt+solenoid&qid=1596659237&sr=8-23 There are 12 volt solenoids that are designed for door latches if that is helpful. For the solenoids: 4.5N (newtons) equals 1 pound of force.

Perhaps you may find something useful here: https://www.electronics-lab.com/top-10-free-pcb-design-software-2019/

Most likely it is the manufacturer's part number. Perhaps you can find a schematic diagram?

When the switch is closed in the debouncing circuit the input to the inverter is a logic 0 and the output a logic 1. Current flows from the battery supply of the inverter to its output. But the absolute maximum current rating for the output of a 74HC14 is only 24 ma. Do you really need a debouncing circuit? I wonder if you could replace the mosfet and debouncing circuuit with a 3 position switch; An On-Off-On. If not you may need a transistor between the inverter and the load. But you get a lost of 0.5 or 0.7 volts. Also the 100mfd capacitors are quite large for you circuit; charging the one through 2000 ohms will take awhile. Perhaps 1.0 mfd?

If you search for Arduino function or signal generator you will find some useful information. Like: https://circuitdigest.com/microcontroller-projects/arduino-waveform-generator

The URL is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIz9ektLunE Following the link from youtube does not lead to anything useful. The code has numinous errors. It would never run, for spuddo: This is a snapshot of the serial monitor displaying the output of the code below. This is the circuit that I used. The duty control on the left. The two resistors limit the range of the output. You do not want zero duty cycle for example. The period control on the right. The resistor limits the period from going to zero for example. The code: // // A rework of the code from the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIz9ektLunE // void virtual_Scope(); int iDutyCyclePin = 2; //set input pin for the left pot = duty cycle int iPeriodPin = 1; //set input pin for the right pot = peroid int iLedPin = 13; //ser pin for output to LED //float fFrequency; //frequency = how many full periods per second or per 1000 millisedonds float fPeriod = 10; //value from the left pot float fDuty = 1; long int liPeriod, liDuty; int iDutyPercent; long int liHigh_Time, liLow_Time; void setup() { pinMode(iLedPin, OUTPUT); //declare ledpin as OUTPIN //Serial Port begin Serial.begin (9600); } void loop() { fPeriod = analogRead(iPeriodPin); //read the value from the right pot = period fDuty = analogRead(iDutyCyclePin); //read the value from the left pot = duty cycle //limit the range of the duty cycle to 20 to 80 percent of the period because that is what works! fDuty = (fDuty*9/10000) * fPeriod ; //with 5 volt supply liDuty = int(fDuty); //for printouts below liPeriod = int(fPeriod); //iDutyPercent = 100*liDuty/1024; //cal duty cycle as percent for serial monitor ???? iDutyPercent = 100*liDuty/liPeriod; //cal duty cycle as percent for serial monitor // fFrequency = (1000/float(liPeriod)); //cal frequency in units of Hertz for serial monitor ??? // liHigh_Time = liDuty*liPeriod/1024; //cal high = on time ??? liHigh_Time = liDuty; // high = on time liLow_Time = liPeriod - liHigh_Time; //cal low = off time Serial.println(); //new line Serial.print("period "); Serial.print(liPeriod); Serial.println(" milliseconds"); Serial.print("duty "); Serial.print(liDuty); Serial.println(" milliseconds"); Serial.print("on time "); Serial.print(liHigh_Time); Serial.println(" milliseconds"); Serial.print("off time "); Serial.print(liLow_Time); Serial.println(" milliseconds"); Serial.print(" duty cycle "); Serial.print(iDutyPercent); Serial.println(" % "); // Serial.print("frequency "); //what is frequency here? // Serial.print(fFrequency); // Serial.println(" Hertz"); digitalWrite(iLedPin, HIGH); //set the ledPin on delay(liHigh_Time); //pause the program for high_time in microseconds digitalWrite(iLedPin, LOW); //set the ledPin off delay(liLow_Time); //pause the program for low_time in microseconds virtual_Scope(); //display trace delay(4000); //slow down the scrolling } void virtual_Scope() { //display a line of pulses int iHighDashes, iLowDashes; int iCount; //let one dash = 30 ms iHighDashes = liHigh_Time/30; iLowDashes = liLow_Time/30; iCount = 60/(iHighDashes+iLowDashes); //try to make the lengths similar // Serial.println(String(iCount) + " "+ String(iLowDashes) + " " + String(iHighDashes) ); //new line for space at top Serial.println(); //space at top while (iCount--) { for (int i=0; i <iLowDashes; i++) { Serial.print("_"); } for (int i=0; i <iHighDashes; i++) { Serial.print("-"); } } Serial.println(); //space at bottom }

Given what he shows in the video one can emulate the code easily. If that is what you would like.

I gather one would need a microcomputer to interface one with the other. I take it the output one is not compatible with the input of the other?