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MP

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Everything posted by MP

  1. You also have to keep in mind the resistance of the load after the voltage passes the voltage divider network. Here are a couple of links that might help you understand a voltage divider better: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/voldiv.html http://www.doctronics.co.uk/voltage.htm#what MP
  2. You can't see either one well in the sunlight. It is the backlight that helps you see the LCD display. The black segment LED and black segment LCD displays both are hard to see in sunlight without a light background. Perhaps you just need a backlight. Perhaps a replacement display with white background. Again, who knows how to help without a schematic or data on what you are using. All I see here is a lot of debate of LED vs. LCD. nametc3: Where is your information? Some designs are easy to convert and some are not. MP
  3. Yep. Depends on what he has. Hope we can see a schematic. MP
  4. Are you sure you didn't post this backwards? LED will normally be brighter outdoors than LCD. If it is black LED, perhaps you want to go to the brighter red LEDs. Like ante said, you will have to post the schematic before successful changes to the circuit are possible. MP
  5. If you have a 10 amp supply, it does not mean your projects will use 10 amps. They will only take what they need. However, you should take precaution to have some limiting feature whether it is a 10 amp or 5 amp supply. MP
  6. Yes, as you put it, you are just off in space somewhere talking to yourself. It willl not work as a replacement. Better to come up with the bucks for the original in this case. MP
  7. Hi frankwas, Welcome to Electronics-lab! The power amp in your link can run on 25 to 30 volts. This transformer only gives you 25 volts. That is why it is not maximum spec. Most amplifiers need a bipolar supply. Note that this one gives you 2 X 25 volts. This means it is a 50V center-tapped transformer. You want +/-30V, or 60V, center-tapped, provided the power transistors can handle it. If you know which power transistors are used, you should look at the data sheet. You want to make sure error in your mains connection does not take the transistors above the maximum spec. Also, note that the amplifier will only use what is needed in terms of amperage, so if you allow for some headroom in the way of amperage, you will be ok. This is a common mistake in making homebrew amplifiers. If you do not have enough amperage, it does not matter how many volts are at the secondary of the transformer. Hope this gets you on your way. MP
  8. Always post a link to the project you are requesting information about. It makes it easier for others to take a quick look. MP
  9. Here are some links that might interest you jean-noel: http://geek.scorpiorising.ca/windingtransformers.html http://www.shinrock.com/Audio-Transformers/technicaldata.html http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_9/5.html MP
  10. You could also use a 7809 with resistors added like on a 317 for adjustment above the 9 volt mark since you do not need voltage lower than 9 VDC. MP
  11. I had a small TV that I needed to get rid of. It was dead. The metal scrapper would not take it...the dump would not take it...so, I put it on the curb in front of my house with a sign that said "FREE", and it was gone the very next day. 8) Love those guys that like to tear things apart!! Maybe nevermind1281 lives in my neighborhood? MP
  12. Are you sure the system is not de-activating the on-board sound card since you are using the address for the new sound card? You might have a conflict even after you make the hardware. Not being a fan of Linux, my suggestion would be to uninstall Linux and....problem solved. MP
  13. Yes, surface mount can be used. I would not recommend the use of TO92 style regulators since the TO220 have a nice heat dissipation. MP
  14. Here is a site that might prove to be helpful to you. It deals with troubleshooting noise such as alternator noise in your audio circuits. Perhaps something in this article will jump out at you since you are really the only one who knows how you put this project together and where wires are placed, etc... http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html MP
  15. ...then type CLS to get rid of all the other garbage. (Clear Screen) MP
  16. yeah, but that really does not matter since answers to questions posted on this forum by one person could be the solution to another member's problem as well. MP
  17. this topic should be removed....no one should be told to google before posting. E-Lab is the ultimate source of information. MP
  18. Kevin, Post a drawing. There could be a number of reasons. MP
  19. Maxim has an application note regarding this. I suggest that you go through it and make sure you are meeting all the requirements. http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/3607 MP
  20. Perhaps this link will help: http://www.wrighthobbies.net/examples/wirelessdata.htm MP
  21. Jiro, Here is a pdf copy of a function generator kit that is commercially available. Have fun! MP Op_Amp_Function_Generator_ck102.pdf
  22. You can get a vocal remover patch for Winamp here: http://www.analogx.com/contents/download/audio/vremover.htm It uses a digital algorithm instead of hardware. MP
  23. No, I did not design the fuzz circuit Jesus posted. It is a standard that has been used for many years. It works and has worked well for many. I have a similar circuit inside the plate on an older guitar that I have from the late 60's. Again, there is nothing wrong with the design. There are much better designs, but if his circuit is not working, it is not due to the design. It is due to making it incorrectly. (That is not theory...that is fact). MP
  24. By applying voltage to them. They don't do anything without the voltage... 8) MP
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