0-30V Stabilized Power Supply

[donr1]

Hope I am posting right here. What I would like is the revised schematic of this power supply and also info on where to purchase pcb. I have the revised parts list posted by audioguru. Thanks

 

[LEECH666]

The latest circuit diagram can be found here: http://www.electronics-lab.com/forum/index.php?topic=19066.msg1002666#msg1002666

According to this application note from Fischer Elekronik (heat sink manufacturerer)
http://www.fischerelektronik.de/pim/upload/fischerData/datasheet/base/technischeerlaeuterungen_d.pdf (sorry it's in German, there used to be an english version of this but it's gone) you calculate it like this.

Florian

 

[donr1]

Thank you much, I will go from here.

 

[donr1]

One more question. Is there a way I can get +/- outputs on this supply. I am going to build it anyway but would be even more handy for me if I had both. Thanks.

 

[audioguru2]

One more question. Is there a way I can get +/- outputs on this supply. I am going to build it anyway but would be even more handy for me if I had both.

Make two completely separate projects (with separate transformers or separate transformer windings).
One can be a positive supply when its negative output is common and the other can be a negative supply when its positive output is common. Connect the commons together and to earth if you want.
Then you will have positive 0V to +30VDC at up to 3A and have negative 0V to -30VDC at up to 3A.

 

[donr1]

Thank you audioguru for the info and please don't think I question your answer because I know next to nothing about electronics. Here's the rub, I just put a small voltage bench supply together, two 14v outlets, one plus, one neg, using center tapped trans. I was curious as to whether this one could be modified so as to have more output v and amps than the first one and have +/-. I have the parts for this 30v supply on order and thought maybe with some changes I could do what I asked about. Probably to late for that now?

 

[audioguru2]

It is simple to make the modified 0v-30V/3A power supply produce up to 5A instead of 3A. There is a thread about it.
It uses a transformer that has a 7A AC output, 3 output transistors to share the heat and the 0.47 ohm current-sensing resistor is changed to 0.27 ohms.

 

[madafakamw]

Hi again.
I've just finished the PSu work and I got some problems. U3 gets instantly very very hot after i plug it in. Also The current control potentiometer acts like voltage regulator and it regulates between 15 and 38 V. I really need some help.
Ty.

 

[audioguru2]

Hi again.
I've just finished the PSu work and I got some problems. U3 gets instantly very very hot after i plug it in. Also The current control potentiometer acts like voltage regulator and it regulates between 15 and 38 V. I really need some help.

U3 has a load of only 3mA through R20. There is no current in D9. Therefore U3 will not get warm.
The current control normally reduces the output voltage when the output current exceeds its setting.

 

[madafakamw]

Is normal to have 45V at the + and - of the bridge diode?  ???
LE:
I use 28V ac transformer.
If P2 shortcuts Pin3 of U3 with R18=U3 gets very hot;
if P2 shortcuts Pin3 of U3 with R17=U2 gets very hot, led also turns on;
I don't know too much electronics and I need someone to help me troubleshoot this power source. I've spent too many hours just to throw it away.  :-\

 

[audioguru2]

Is normal to have 45V at the + and - of the bridge diode?  ???
LE:
I use 28V ac transformer.
If P2 shortcuts Pin3 of U3 with R18=U3 gets very hot;
if P2 shortcuts Pin3 of U3 with R17=U2 gets very hot, led also turns on;
I don't know too much electronics and I need someone to help me troubleshoot this power source. I've spent too many hours just to throw it away.

Your 28V AC transformer might produce 30VAC when it has low load current. 30V AC produces 42.4V peak. The rectifier bridge reduces it to 41.0VDC. Your 45V is a little too high but is OK for opamp U3 if the 10V zener diode that feeds it is not connected backwards. The cathode of the zener diode is marked with a black bar and must be connected to the positive supply. Then the positive supply pin 7 of the opamp will be +31V which is well below its maximum allowed voltage of 44V. Yours might be +35V which is also fine.

P2 is 10k, R18 is 33k and the current-calibration trimpot is about 45k. The trimpot connects to the output of U1 which is +11.2V. Then if P2 connects pin 3 input of U3 to R18 its voltage is only 11.2V x 10k/(33k + 45k)= 1.4V which is fine for U3. With a low load current on the project then the pin 2 input of U3 is 0V. Then the pin 3 input is higher than the pin 2 input so its output is high which turns off the LED and it does not limit the project's output current. U3 will be barely warm. If you are using the tiny surface-mount package then it will be obviously warm but not hot.

When P2 connects pin 3 input of U3 to R17 then its voltage is almost 0V which is fine. a load on the project that has a currernt higher than a few mA will cause the output of U3 to go low which causes 3mA in R20 which turns on the transistor driving the LED. The low at the output of U3 also causes D9 to reduce the voltage to the input pin 3 of U2 which reduces the output voltage of the project so that the output current is reduced. U3 gets a little warmer but not hot and U2 does not get hot unless the driver or output transistor is connected backwards (collector and emitter pins swapped).

You also had the output never less than 15V which might be caused by the driver or output transistor with its collector and emitter pins swapped. Then U2 and the driver transistor will get very hot. 

 

[Rocker1234]

I want to insert fine tuning for voltage.
Can I do that
plz suggest me ???

 

[audioguru2]

I think a large knob should be used for adjusting the voltage so you can see where it is and adjust it fine or coarse.

If you add a fine adjustment pot in series with the coarse adjusting pot then one pot will frequently be at its end.

 

[denci]

So i have build the power supply and i replaced sense resitor to 0.27E and i used three paralleled 2n3055 transistor with 0.33E emitor resistor.
I was thinking about max. current, how can i test this most easily??
Other component are unchanged against VER2 of circuit and REV3 of component!

 

[audioguru2]

So i have build the power supply and i replaced sense resitor to 0.27E and i used three paralleled 2n3055 transistor with 0.33E emitor resistor.
I was thinking about max. current, how can i test this most easily??
Other component are unchanged against VER2 of circuit and REV3 of component!

You made the 5A version of the latest circuit. The transformer must be 28V at least 200VA and the heatsink for the output transistors must be huge and maybe have a cooling fan.

Most ordinary inexpensive multi-meters can accurately measure the load current.

 

[denci]

I think a large knob should be used for adjusting the voltage so you can see where it is and adjust it fine or coarse.

If you add a fine adjustment pot in series with the coarse adjusting pot then one pot will frequently be at its end.

So i must insert 1k pot in series with existing trim pot and adjustale pin combine together??

 

[denci]

I have onother question, i don't know exactly where is the negative power supply in the schematic of stabilized power supply?
Therefore which connection in circuit should i use to negative set voltage (oV to -30V)?

 

[audioguru2]

So i must insert 1k pot in series with existing trim pot and adjustale pin combine together??

No.
The trimpot is adjusted only one time for calibration. Adjust the trimpot for an output of exactly 30.0V with the coarse and fine pots set to maximum.
The 1k fine pot is connected in series with the coarse 10k voltage setting pot P1.

 

[denci]

yes, that is what i meaned, but how to connect the adjustable pin of fine pot, together with adjustable pin of 10k pot??

 

[red baron]

Hi guys
I have trawled through the 123 pages about this project on the first listed subject, and then the 96 pages in this listed project, and I note some confusion and some frustration, so I have spent time trying to filter out a solution for the newcomers to get started and to have success - it's a great project.

Attached is the latest and most commonly used schematic and parts list from Audioguru (a real master!), but it is left up to the enthusiast to design a printed circuit board, and many of us do not have this desire or these skills.

Also attached is the circuit diagram and parts list from Picmaster (the circuits are the same but the part numbering is different!), which also includes a successful printed circuit board design for the 3A or 5A version.

Since I wanted the easy and quickest way forward I made the pcb using the 'laser print and Mommy's iron' method, and then I created a comparison list of how to progress from the Audioguru version to the Picmaster pcb.

I hope that this is helpful to anyone just starting.

Audioguru_schematic_and_parts_list.pdf

Picmaster_0_-_30V_3_-_5A_Power_Supply.pdf

Parts_comparison_0_-_30V_3_or_5A_Power_Supply.pdf