Kevin Weddle
- Feb 23, 2004
- 1,620
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2004
- Messages
- 1,620
Are there still problems with this general purpose power supply. Give some better designs or a link to better ones.
Since your U3 opamp does not perform correctly as a comparator then replace it.sobol said:Does someone have any ideas what's wrong with my circuit?
The rectified and filtered +40V can light an LED if it has a current-limiting resistor.Question said:Hi, is there any place in the circuit of this project, where safely, without any harmful consequencies or bad interference to other parts of the circuit, could be added additional LED diode, which should be on all the time, when the power supply is on?
Yes.Question said:Did you mean exactly this place is the best to connect an LED? (modification in red color).
I replaced it with 3 other opamps, and the effect is still the same.audioguru said:Since your U3 opamp does not perform correctly as a comparator then replace it.
Inverting or non-inverting input?audioguru said:Why do you add a switch to force the output to the positive unregulated voltage?
Don't you want a switch to force the output to 0V?
Then add a switch to the input of U2 and ground.
U2 is a non-inverting amplifier. Pin 3 is its input and pin 2 is used for negative feedback.sobol said:Inverting or non-inverting input?
Then at maximum output current you might have ripple instead of voltage regulation.sobol said:Can I increase output voltage with voltage calibration trimpot without any consequences? Or it's not recommended?
When the output is shorted or set to a low voltage then at 10A the heating is 40V x 10A= 400W!nitro199 said:Hi, i`m gattering all information that i can geti read entire topic and found 3 or 5A versions, but maybe there is any chance to get 7 or 10A with thease schematics?
thanks audioguru i will try first without any modifiation, then it will be easyer to upgradeaudioguru said:When the output is shorted or set to a low voltage then at 10A the heating is 40V x 10A= 400W!
You will need many output transistors on huge heatsinks and a fan.
You must parallel a few driver transistors, each with an emitter resistor and a huge heatsink.
The opamp U2 might not be able to provide enough current to the driver transistors and the opamp might over-heat.
You have many serious problems, probably caused by wiring errors.nida said:Hi,I am facing the problem Plz help me out.
The two diodes are supposed to conduct a small current which clamps the voltage to -1.3V.nida said:I have checked my circuit again and resolved the wiring errors.The voltage across two 1N4148 diodes connected in series is -11.2V not -1.3V. why?
R3 is fed a small current from rectifier D6 which has its current limited by R2. The other end of R3 is fed to the voltage-limiting diodes and the negative power supply pin 4 of U3 that draws only a couple of mA.voltage across R3=14V thats why it gets burn.Why?
R7 is 0.47 ohms for the 3A version and is 0.27 ohms for the 5A version. Why do you want 0.4 ohms?Can I connect two 0.8ohm resistors in parrallel to make 0.4ohm(the one connected in series with load)?
Transformer is of 24VAC.I have C1 (10000uF,63V) so can i connect 1000uf,50V in parallel?