tdx Posted November 29, 2010 Report Posted November 29, 2010 20v transformer it is. Now just a few quick questions before I order parts because of some parts list and schematic conflicts:1) Schematic shows a 100nf poly cap (labeled C10 on some schematics) between the negative line and the emitter of transistor Q3 & opamp U3's Vcc, but is not on parts list, should this be removed completely?2) Resistor R15 (100 ohm) is nowhere to be found on schematics, delete?3) The 10v 1w Zener is missing from my parts list, but this should be added right? There should be a 5.6v and 10v Zener?Thanks again for your guidance. Quote
audioguru Posted November 29, 2010 Report Posted November 29, 2010 1) Schematic shows a 100nf poly cap (labeled C10 on some schematics) between the negative line and the emitter of transistor Q3 & opamp U3's Vcc, but is not on parts list, should this be removed completely?When I added the 10V zener diode to reduce the supply voltage to Q3 and U3 I added the 100nF capacitor because all opamps need a supply bypass capacitor. But I forgot to number it.2) Resistor R15 (100 ohm) is nowhere to be found on schematics, delete?The oroginal schematic used R15 but it was useless. Delete it.3) The 10v 1w Zener is missing from my parts list, but this should be added right? There should be a 5.6v and 10v Zener?The 10V zener diode is important. The 5.6V zener diode D8 is extremely important and should be one that is rated at only 5mA. Many zener diodes are rated at 45mA and should not be used. Quote
LEECH666 Posted November 30, 2010 Report Posted November 30, 2010 Hello again,I got a question regarding the heatsink of the BD 139 transistor. I think "a pretty big heatsink" is a bit vague/relative. Could someone translate "pretty big heatsink" into a Quote
audioguru Posted November 30, 2010 Report Posted November 30, 2010 The BD139 is in a very old case so its thermal resistance is high (it is difficult to cool).The 2N3055 output transistors have a lot of power to dissipate.It is easy for you to calculate the max power of a transistor, look up its max allowed temperature, decide how high you want the max temp to be, allow thermal resistance for insulators then select a heatsink. Quote
LEECH666 Posted November 30, 2010 Report Posted November 30, 2010 Oh yeah you're right, I actually leared that stuff at technician school, but I am a little rusted. I think there is also a spreadsheat by Fischer Elektronik that explains the process. I'm going to look it up.Found it: >> PDF << Quote
ulli12 Posted December 2, 2010 Report Posted December 2, 2010 hello,I would like to replace R7 with a shunt resistor of 0.0075 Ohm,I assume this will have an effect on R17 & R21.P2 should stay 10k (I already have this one).-How can I calculate the new resistorvalues?-R7 limits the max possible (short cut) current in the circuit, maybe I could increase the resistors at the 2N3055 output to ie 1 Ohm to compensate for this?thanks Quote
audioguru Posted December 2, 2010 Report Posted December 2, 2010 I would like to replace R7 with a shunt resistor of 0.0075 OhmThe pcb traces will add a lot of unknown resistance and will destroy the accuracy of the current setting.3A in only 0.0075 ohms produces a voltage drop of only 22.5mV which is fairly close to the input offset voltage of U3 so some ICs will read the current as being much too low and other ICs will read the current as being much too high. At lower current settings you will not know how much is the current regulation.-R7 limits the max possible (short cut) current in the circuitNo.R7 does not limit the current, the circuit limits the current. R7 simply senses the current.Your idea makes no sense. Quote
philipl Posted December 13, 2010 Report Posted December 13, 2010 I built this power supply a couple of years ago and have used it for a variety of tasks. Tonight I was using it to try to run a 12v motor (around .5A) but the motor seems to have a problem (perhaps shorted) and now my power supply isn't supplying any power. There is power to the board from the transformer.What would be the most likely component to have blown?Should I have added a fuse somewhere?Philip Quote
audioguru Posted December 13, 2010 Report Posted December 13, 2010 Philip,You forgot to say which version you made.The original version has the opamps operating at a supply voltage that is above their max allowed voltage. The power transformer, the rectifiers, Q2 and Q4 are overloaded. Some of the resistors get too hot.Any of them could fail at any time. Quote
philipl Posted December 13, 2010 Report Posted December 13, 2010 Sorry - so far as I can see, my device uses the current circuit.I have built a few electronic devices but all of them have worked fine. I would know how to test resistors, the transformer (which is working fine) and rectifiers but not sure how to test transistors. How can I do that?Philip Quote
audioguru Posted December 14, 2010 Report Posted December 14, 2010 A transistor can be tested with a new digital multimeter.In the low voltage ohm-meter function that supplies only 200mV so the juctions do not conduct, the collector to emitter should not conduct and the reverse-biased base-emitter and base-collector diodes should not conduct.In the "diode-test" fuction, the forward-biased base-emitter and base-collector diodes should conduct. Quote
philipl Posted December 22, 2010 Report Posted December 22, 2010 Audioguru,I have replaced the power transistor (Q4), R7, Q1 and tested with a (just purchased) multimeter to see whether any of the capacitors are non operational but still no output from the power supply. I don't think any of these were blown but they seemed to be likely candidates, so replaced them. Not sure what to do next.Would the op amps be the problem? If so how can these be tested? Replacing them?Thanks,Philip Quote
audioguru Posted December 22, 2010 Report Posted December 22, 2010 U2, Q2 and Q4 are an amplifier with a voltage gain determined by the values of R11 and R12. R11 is 27k and R12 is 56k so the voltage gain is 1+ (56k/27k)= 3.074. The trimpot reduces the gain to be low enough so that the max output voltage is 30.0V when the voltage pot is set to max and has 11.2V from U1.Measure the output of U1 and it should always be close to 11.2V. It feeds the voltage-adjust pot. Quote
morpheous87 Posted January 1, 2011 Report Posted January 1, 2011 Heya, I'm going to make this project. My question is, does everything work and are there any nesessary modification in the project posted here? Quote
audioguru Posted January 1, 2011 Report Posted January 1, 2011 Heya, I'm going to make this project. My question is, does everything work and are there any nesessary modification in the project posted here?You are looking at the original project that is (was?) a kit in Greece. It has many errors that cause it to fail because the supply voltage for the opamps exceeds their max allowed supply voltage, the transformer and output transistor are overloaded and the old driver transistor is severely overloaded.Its rectifier diodes and some of its resistors are also overloaded.It cannot produce 30VDC at 3A. Its max output is 24VDC to 25VDC with lots of ripple at 3A.In this forums section of this website we corrected it. Quote
morpheous87 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 I looked up trough this topic, and as s final result I'm pretty much confused. There are a lot of question and answers, different version of the schematic and so on. I's hard for to find real working scheme with ready echable board (my english is not perfect and that makes problems...). My appeal is to link, a working version with the nesessary files, which i can use to build the board ( a ready printable file will be great). I can be single or double sided,but single sided is prefered. Thanks!! Quote
PicMaster Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 This is my version of the PSU , All tested all working no problems complete with PCB and BOM aslo with connection drawing, I mounted the transistors on a seperate PCB but you don't have to use the PCB you can just hard wire them.EL_power_supply.pdf Quote
morpheous87 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 Thanks PicMaster, that's what I was looking for. Everything looks great. I'll etch the board soon, and try it out. Quote
morpheous87 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 I looked in your project, and I have some questions. Can 24V input from transformer be used?And can 2N3055 be used instead of TIP3055? Quote
PicMaster Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 I looked in your project, and I have some questions. Can 24V input from transformer be used?And can 2N3055 be used instead of TIP3055?Yes a 24V transformer can be used but you will not get the full 30V plus you will suffer a higher ripple at max voltage set to max current, This would be ok if only want 25V PSUYes you can use 2N3055 instead of TIP3055 Quote
morpheous87 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 What is the maximum voltage which can be used from the transformer? Does the corpuse of the transistor should be separated from the heatshink? Quote
audioguru Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 The collectors of the two output transistors are connected together so they can be directly bolted to the heatsink without transistor insulators but then the entire heatsink must be insulated from the metal chassis. Quote
morpheous87 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 I have some transformers, and one of them has 31,5V output without a load. Can it be used for the scheme? Quote
audioguru Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 31.5VAC has a peak of 44.5V. The rectifier bridge and main filter capacitor will produce an unregulated positive supply of 43V for opamps U1 and u2 which is close to their max allowed supply of 44V. If the mains voltage is a little higher then the opamps might fail.A 28VAC (at full load) transformer will work well and be safe.Hammond in Canada make a 30VAC transformer that is 31V without a load. Quote
morpheous87 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 I have one transformer that confuses me. See the label on it and the ouput voltage it makes. Isn't the label 24/91 W means 24V 91 W ? Quote
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