I will start from saying that the board could be replaced by any Arduino plus some(s) its motor driver shield(s). So why I made it you may ask? Well, while I made this tiny tank-robot model presented on below pictures, I wanted to make at least some things by myself, and decide what I need and how I need it instead of only buying prefabricated stuff.
Simple and extensible microprocessor driver for robots – [Link]
I used specialized triple half bridge IC L6234 (~ 8$). You can make the same spending less money (but more time) with MOSFET transistors or other IC.
L6234 datasheet is surprisingly useless. Go straight to Application Note AN1088 instead.
I added current limiting resistors (1kΩ) to all INputs and ENable pins, a bunch of capacitors recommended in application note and current sensing shunt resistor 0.6Ω (big blue one).
Spining BLDC motors at super Slow speeds with Arduino and L6234 – [Link]
3D Printers, CNC Mills, Laser cutters, Pick n Place robots…Brainboard v2 will rule them all!
Brainboard v2 is a modular CNC controller board based on LPC1768/69 Cortex-M3 chip. Due to its modular design it allows easier upgrades as per requirements and easy replacement if there is any broken part. It runs on open source Smoothie modular firmware and is targeted at 3D Printers, Laser cutters, CNC Mills, Pick and Place and other small or Mid-size CNC machines. Upgrade your machines for higher performance and features.
Brainboard v2: Demon of CNC controllers – [Link]
This schematic shows the TI AMC1200 in a motor control application. The motor phase current is measured at the resistor (RSHUNT), and the signal is processed through an RC filter before reaching the AMC1200. Also shown are optional protection capacitors C3 and C4. The TI AMC1200 get its high side power from the power supply of the upper gate driver, and a 5.1V zener diode regulates the voltage. The high transient immunity of the AMC1200 and AMC1200B ensures reliable and accurate operation even in high-noise environments such as the power stages of the motor drives.
Motor Control using TI AMC1200 – [Link]
Davide Gironi writes:
The PWM frequency have to be selected in the way that the switch frequency is much higher than the dynamics of the motor.
To avoid noise from the motor, the choosen PWM frequency is 20Khz. Which is a know to know frequency.
So, with this one, you can drive up to 4 motors independently controlling:
*slow start / stop
Setup parameters are contained in dcmotorpwm.h
This library was developed on Eclipse, built with avr-gcc on Atmega8 @ 8MHz.
Driving a DC motor using PWM with AVR ATmega – [Link]
What a CAM Drive can or can not do:
A CAMdrive node must be selected according to the motor.
Stepper motors need a Stepper Controller of CAMDrive.
Normal DC motors need a CAMdrive-BrushedDCMotor controller.
To connect with Bluetooth, only one node needs the Bluetooth module. The remaining nodes are wired via the bus.
There is only one power supply required! No matter which node is connected, it supplies the remaining nodes and motors on the bus
It does not matter on which node the camera is connected, it all work “Camera” jacks simultaneously.
The bus connection is established via a standard network cable (patch cord).
CamDrive – an open source multi-axis control for time-lapse photography – [Link]
Minimum noise, easy speed control and a high power, those are another reasons why to decide for GreenTech EC fans from EBM-Papst.
A term „EC fan“ (electronic commutation) is generally used to mark energy-saving AC fans. In fact, these are DC (brushless) fans with AC/DC module and other electronics. EC fans reach up to 90% efficiency and they consume 50% less energy than traditional AC fans.
At the same time, a typical „50Hz“ motor noise is eliminated at EC fans and practically the only noise source is aerodynamic noise depending on overall fan design.
A good example of a modern fan is for example the type G1G140-AW31-42 i.e. radial (centrifugal) fan with 140mm diameter. Efficient motor with a „Soft start“ function enables to control fan speed through a DC input (0-10V) or PWM. To check a proper function, the fan also features „Tach“ output (2 pulses / revolution) as well as locked motor protection.
Thanks to the built-in electronics, at cyclic use it´s recommended to switch-off the motor through a control signal, not by switching-off main power supply.
G1G140-AW31-42 is suitable for a continuous operation (S1) and can be mounted in any position. It´s used for example for building ventilation.
Detailed information will provide you the G1G140-AW31-42 datasheet.
Modern EC fans are able to save up to 50% of energy – [Link]
Infineon have announced two shields for the Arduino development environment. The RGB LED Lighting Shield (shown left) provides three independent output channels with a DC/DC LED driver stage to give flicker-free control of multicolor LEDs. It is fitted with an XMC1202 microcontroller using a Brightness Color Control Unit (BCCU) to help off-load time-critical events from the Arduino processor. The Shield can be expanded by adding an optional isolated DMX512 interface for stage lighting control and audio nodes or a 24 GHz radar sensor for motion detection.
Arduino Shields from Infineon – [Link]
by w2aew @ youtube.com:
This video shows a simple circuit that can be used to control the position of an typical remote control (RC) style servo with an analog voltage. The PWM (pulse width modulated) control signal format for an RC servo is reviewed, followed by the presentation of a simple circuit that can be used to control the servo with a simple adjustable DC voltage. The circuit is built with rail-to-rail op amps and a few resistors and capacitors. Note that the schematic presented doesn’t include all of the decoupling on the power supply and reference lines that you would likely want to include. A description of the circuit, as well as a more in depth discussion of each of the building blocks such as an integrator, hysteresis comparator and DC signal conditioner circuit including an attenuator, inverting amplifier and level shifter, is presented.
Circuit Fun: Control an RC Servo with an adjustable DC voltage – [Link]
by Ioannis Kedros:
I’ve start building multicopters (or drones if you like it better) five months ago! My first one was a scratch build tricopter based on a KK2.1.5 flight controller and three DT750 motors. Everything was made out of plywood and pinewood! It held excellent if you consider that I was a newbie pilot (still I am) and I had something like 3-4 crash reports per flight!
Two moths ago I decided to go a step further and make my second multicopter. This time it will look a little bit more professional than my previous one! To begin with it will be a quad copter, carry a better flight controller, reuse parts of the previous build (in order to lower the cost) and it will be able to stay above the ground longer.
Making a Quadcopter – [Link]