Dave looks at the open source hardware UFactory uARM 4-axis desktop robotic arm kit project available on kickstarter.
This is the first unit produced, and comes with the suction cup head and Arduino Uno board and shield controller.
EEVblog #586 – Open Source Hardware uARM 4-Axis Desktop Robotic Arm Kickstarter - [Link]
The Arachnoid Mobile Platform is an open source robotics development platform used to make small autonomous moving robots. It can be either configured as a four-legged robot, or as a two wheeled robot. The PCB board holds all the electronics and mechanical components, and also serves as the chassis of the robot.
AMP – Arachnoid Mobile Platform - [Link]
Ardusumo is a universal platform to build robots on wheels that can move around avoiding obstacles using infrared sensors and follow routes marked with dark lines on a white background.
We have created Ardusumo to bring young students to the world of robotics: if suitably programmed, Ardusumo allows robots to perform various autonomous movements, it integrates sensors and actuators of various types with wheels and electric motors.
The platform is Arduino based but consists of a single molded frame that is both mechanical and electronic circuit. It has also various possible assembly, thanks to the modularity and versatility of the connections.
The electronic circuit of the Ardusumo robot is very simple: the core is an Arduino UNO board, interfaced with four sensors – three in front and one on the back- and two Sharp infrared radar. The optical sensors are pointed down and used to follow tracks marked on the ground and recognize when the robot is crossing a delimited border.
Ardusumo: an Open Source Platform for Fighting Robots - [Link]
chris @ pyroelectro.com writes:
Since we now have a beautiful robotic chassis, we’re ready to continue our Building A Robot series, and get serious with some motor control. This second part of building a robot is perhaps the most crucial as it will define what type of control we will have over the motors. Ideally, we want a simple method for controlling the motors so that our software is free to do other things.
In this article we will move forward with the Building A Robot series by adding the electronics necessary to control the speed and direction of both motors on the robotic chassis, which we developed in the previous article, Part 1: The Chassis. The two main additions in this portion of the project are a microcontroller and a motor controller IC.
Building A Robot: Motor Control - [Link]
In the heart of the D1 radar sensor is a radar chip based on Ultra-Wideband (UWB) radar technology from Novelda (www.novelda.no). An UWB radar sensor sends out electromagnetic pulses and looks at the pulses that are reflected back. When an electromagnetic pulse hits the wall in the video above, a part of the pulse is reflected back to the radar and a part of it penetrates the wall and is reflected from the cabinet behind the wall.
See-through-wall robot - [Link]
Chris The Carpenter has put together possibly the most complete robot module for the Propeller Platform. Called the 444AVXB, he writes… [via]
Let’s start with the name, 444-AVXB stands for:
4 Amps (2 amps x 2 motors) via a L298 motor driver
4 ADC’s (Analog inputs) via a MCP3204 chip
4 Servos with connections to power and with current-limiting resistors on the signal wires
Video-out via a standard RCA jack
Connections for an X-bee
Connections for a BlueSmirf Bluetooth unit
he 444-AVXB was designed with the robot hobbyist in mind. Connections are available for just about every “standard” thing you would find on a small to medium-sized robot. A hefty motor driver handles decent-sized motors with nice screw terminals for both power and motor connections. (4) 3-pin connections are provided for servos which can be powered by either external power or on-board power. An ADC chip allows for 4 analog inputs to be read, great for analog sensors, pots, LDR’s etc.
Video-out takes advantage of the awesome video capability of the prop and can be connected to any TV with a “video-in” and/or many of the cheapie 7” LCD screens (found on Ebay). Audio is just that, audio out with the circuit being the same as can be found on many other propeller products. Pin 15 has been brought forward as well for a Ping))) sonar unit. Finally, there is room and connections for EITHER an X-bee or Bluetooth module. All unused pins are accessible via female headers.
A Robot Module with Everything - [Link]
Robot System Description :
- 2 mobile phone vibrator
- AVR ATtiny45 Microcontroller
- IR RC5 Receiver for remote control
- NiMH rechargeable battery
- LED status indicator
- Dimensions 12mm x 10mm x 18mm
Wheels less smallest Robot “ROBO-BijanMortazavi” - [Link]
David Schneider relates his own experience and gives some advice on building your own underwater ROV. He writes: [via]
Last year at about this time, crews in the Gulf of Mexico were working feverishly to bring BP’s blown-out oil well under control. Some of the more spectacular parts of that effort, as you may recall, involved the use of remotely operated vehicles, or ROVs. Perhaps you had the same thought as I did—that it would be cool to build one.
To be sure, no garage-workbench hacker is going to build an undersea robot that operates a diamond saw or wrestles with a stuck blowout preventer. But those vehicles also monitored events on the seafloor and streamed some amazing video to the Web in real time. A small inspection-class unit—one that carries just a video camera around underwater—ought to be within the grasp of an avid DIYer.
I even built an ROV for fun in the late 1990s. Its underwater thrusters, like the ones employed by most DIYers today, used DC motors mounted in watertight housings. Flexible shaft seals prevented water from getting to the innards of the motors. It used trolling motors, the kind you see pushing small fishing boats around. Submersible bilge pumps are another popular solution.
The great thing about bilge-pump motors is that they are dirt cheap—perfect if all you want is something that can swim around at shallow depths. At greater depths, though, the pressure will cause the flexible seals to close down around the spinning shaft, sapping power and heating the seal. Ultimately, the seal fails and the motor floods.
I wanted my next-generation ROV to be able to go deep, so I took a different approach this time, which was to fill the motors with oil. Shaft seals are still required to keep the oil on the inside separated from the water on the outside. But the two sides of the seal are always at the same pressure, so the motors should be able to operate at any depth.
Build Your Own Undersea Robot - [Link]
Arduino based security bot – [via]
I started with the Arduino last Oct or so and wanted to make some cool first projects. I had wanted a security robot for a long time now for when I am away from the house. I know you can buy premade stuff but I wanted to do it from scratch. So I created SBot 1 and then wanted one with sensors and pan/tilt camera and so SBot 2 was born.
Arduino based security brot - [Link]