Don built an Amblight for his home theater PC. He put together this tutorial describing his build of a multichannel Arduino-based Ambilight. He estimates the BOM at $40 (in addition to the Arduino). [via]
The bill of materials include 6+ ShiftBrites (your call, I wouldn’t do less than 6 though), a printed circuit board, wire, and headers. Additionally this will require all of the components needed to get over 0.5 Amps at 5.5-9V DC on to the board to drive the ShiftBrites; this cannot be reasonably done over USB power. My ultimate goal here is to give others some ideas on how to go about this project for less money than it would cost to essentially buy everything in a kit. I went in to this trying to be resourceful and I feel pretty good about how it turned out.
DIY Arduino Ambilight using ShiftBrites - [Link]
To achieve a more aesthetic panel of your device, you can use flat top LED diodes Kingbright!
We´d like to focus your attention to well-proven flat top LED diodes intended mainly for indication on various controlling and indicating panels. In comparison to standard types with a half-ball top, these types offer a significantly more aesthetic solution when used in front panels.
Advantages / Features:
- aesthetic solution for front panels
- available in 5mm, 3mm and 2mm diameters
- very good visibility even from angles
- low power consumption
From the most used cylindrical types, we keep in stock types with a diameter of 5 mm, 3 mm, as well as miniature ones with a diameter of only 2 mm. All offered types have diffused plastic packages, thus they feature a good visibility even from high viewing angles.
Don´t let LEDs stand out of the panel - [Link]
Andrea Belloni writes:
We realized this project for the “Arduino Day” in Rome 14/04/2011. For it we used two JeeNode (Arduino variant with wireless module on-board), one Rainbowduino + RGB LED Matrix and one PC with Processing. The Processing sketch generate the “plasma” animation and sends the images stream to the first JeeNode via serial port. This JeeNode receives the images and sends it to the second JeeNode via wireless link. The second JeeNode receives the images and sends it to the Rainbowduino + RGB LED Matrix via i2c. More details on the blog’s post (for the English version scroll down).
Wireless pixels - [Link]
A very powerful and bright LED designed to be run on high current. Can be driven to 2800 mA and gives a light flux of 700 to 900 lm (400 lm at 1400 mA). Colour temperature 6300 K and beam angle 130°.
Available as a loose component as well as mounted on STAR PCBs.
Z-Power LED P7, 11.8 W – [Link]
An SMD LED for direct drive with 120/230 V alternating current. The LED consists of two separate coils which are connected in parallel at 120 VAC, and in series for drive with 230 VAC. Available in cold white and warm white versions with a light flux of 360 lm and 280 lm respectively.
230V AC Powered LED - [Link]
An app note on a LED brightness controller:
In this circuit, a digital potentiometer (DS1869) aids an LED-driver IC (MAX16800) in providing manual control of the LED brightness. The circuit also provides thermal protection against excessive heat and overload conditions.
LED brightness controller with 64 taps - [Link]
Giorgos Lazaridis writes:
Some time ago i uploaded a breathing LED circuit with the 555 timer chip. It became very popular and i received many comments and emails with people that made this circuit and worked fine, as well as comments with people that had troubles converting it to operate at 12 volts supply. It was designed to operate with 5 volts, because i plan to use it for a future PC mod. Since the PC power supply has 5 volts output, and since the LEDs that i plan to use require 3.8 volts to operate, choosing 5 volts for supply was the best choice to minimize power dissipation on the transistor.
Converting the original circuit to operate at 12 volts is not a big deal, but it requires some transistor knowledge. The only parts that should be changed were the biasing resistors R4 and R5. But i decided to take it one step further. I decided to make a more flexible breathing circuit. The new version as 2 more functions: It has an adjustable voltage oscillation amplitude, and an adjustable output DC offset. What this means is that it can be easily adjusted to operate with different LEDs. If for example the load is a 12V LED strip with operating voltage range 8 to 12 volts, the circuit can be adjusted to provide exactly this: 8 to 12 volts output. Similarly, it can be adjusted to operate with a high brightness LED that has voltage range from 2.4 to 3.8 volts.
Flexible 555 LED Pulsing (Breathing) Circuit - [Link]
Giorgos Lazaridis writes:
During this very long period that my PC went bad, i had the time to do many thing like finishing the PC case mod that i began like two years ago… So i connected the power button, the reset button and the audio controls. The rotary encoder will be used for my next project that will be a gigantic scriptable 8-channel PC fan controller.
Now, regarding the power button, it has a blue LED that light when the HDDs are operating (write or read process). The effect is very cool, but i want to make it cooler. I want the LED to blink when the HDDs are used, and when no Read/Write operation occurs i want the LED to breath. A breathing LED is the effect that the LED turns on and off by fading in and fading out, which gives the feeling of “breathing”…
A 555 Breathing (Pulsing) LED - [Link]
RGB LED strips: an overview @ Nut & Bolt. David writes – [via]
An addressable RGB LED strip is like a one pixel high color screen. You can do awesome things with them: crazy lighting effects, information displays and even low resolution video. There are many different types of RGB LED strips on the market. Here is an overview of addressable led strips I evaluated for Stripe. I’ll tell you a bit about different controller chips, electrical specifications and software libraries to help you make a choice.
Adafruit LPD8806 LED strip is looking good! - [Link]
RGB LED Ring V2 — sequels don’t have to be bad @ My 2µF – [via]
This is the successor to my old (and lame) RGB LED Ring project.
Version ’2.0 alpha’ – an intermediate step to true enlightenment – uses one LED driver IC and 3 P-channel MOSFETs cycling through the primary colors. This requires special attention in the code to attempt color balancing (forced dot correction at all times).
As of ’2.0 beta’ (likely to become the final version) it comes with 3 dedicated constant current LED driver chips (MBI5168), which completely avoids multiplexing the LEDs and boosts brightness again. Color balancing is done entirely in hardware using 3 potentiometers. The hardware differences should be taken care of in the core part of the demo code, ‘User-land’ code is mostly the same.
RGB LED Ring V2 – sequels don’t have to be bad - [Link]